All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Freeway Crags > The Babylon Crag
Left for Dead
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in The Babylon Crag
|PFM. Pure f $%^&* magic. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|All American Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|All American Hand Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Babylon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Box Tops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Far East T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Left for Dead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Proof of Purchase T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 40 ft|
|FA:||FKA Patrick Mulligan|
|Page Views:||56 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Mulligan on Aug 2, 2014|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Notes Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
DescriptionThis is the left most line on the wall. Its designated as .10+ left of the .9 chimney on Laine's topo. The line follows a varied and slightly overhanging finger to fist crack (taking the right hand branch of the crack) before turning a slab and heading up to the chains. The anchors appeared along with several others several months earlier, but in our exploration of the crag it had never appeared to be climbed. It was just as dirty when climbed in May as it was in the fall of 2013 when it was toproped. If there was an earlier ascent please let me know and I'll make the change.
Speaking of dirty, with some traffic and effort, this thing will clean up into a 3 star classic steep crack climb and may become a little easier. It will make the hike out to Babylon all the more worth while. There is a left branch O/W variation that looks classic as well that to my knowledge has remained unclimbed on lead.
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