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Routes in Babylon Crag

PFM. Pure f $%^&* magic. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
All American Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
All American Hand Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Babylon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Box Tops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far East T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left for Dead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Proof of Purchase T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Kurt Smith, John Bachar, Dave Hatchet 1986
Page Views: 97 total · 2/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on Jan 29, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description [Edit]

Start the climb at the right side of the beautiful slab to lookers left of All American Hand Crack. The climb starts up the corner and then on a shallow slab makes moves out on to the face. 3 old style bolts are followed (these need to be replaced due to rust and questionable nature of the bolts) to more natural gear placements in cracks below a roof. A no hands mantle well out from the first bolt to continuous slab climbing is the crux.

Location [Edit]

Right side of the beautiful slab right of All American

Protection [Edit]

3 bolts and Select pieces to 1"

Photos

Due to the quality of the old bolts and the possible long falls (who would have though the climb would be bold given the 1st ascentionists)- 5/16th button heads and flaked rusty recalled leeper hangers - this climb should only be toproped. That said, having tr'd the route a few times, I don't know if the quality of the climb warrants a retro-job. To make the climb at all safe an extra bolt would need to be added (big slab / ledge fall from the crux).

Post up with your opinions. I have the hardware to replace the aging bolts if consensus is such that it deserves it. Its a testament to the FA party that they bolted this thing on lead. May 13, 2014

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