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Routes in Other Mothers

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Bunny Rabbit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boodalicious Baby T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dolphin Girl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First First T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mamacita T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monk Sandals T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newb Nation S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
RSG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rudimentary Extraction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Soul Steeler S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Randall Chapman
Page Views: 627 total, 9/month
Shared By: Rschap on May 27, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

First First is a trad route with one bolt at the crux where the crack turns to crap. This bolt as well as the three bolt anchor were placed on lead with a hand drill. Black Bunny Rabbit shares an anchor with this route. This route protects well with gear, but almost no crack technique is required as itÂ’s mostly face climbing and easy chimney. Watch out for the cactus.

Location

It goes up the corner between 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart and Black Bunny Rabbit.

Protection

One bolt and cams 0.3-#4 BD. A #6 is useful but not necessary.

Photos

Rschap
Grand Junction, CO
 
Rschap   Grand Junction, CO
 
I would agree if the fall was a little cleaner. May 31, 2012
Bryan K.
Palisade, CO
Bryan K.   Palisade, CO
Looks like the bolt is useful but not necessary? May 30, 2012