All Locations > Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Unaw… > Mother's Buttress > Other Mothers
Avg: 3.3 from 6 votes
Routes in Other Mothers
|84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Black Bunny Rabbit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Boodalicious Baby T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Dolphin Girl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|First First T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mamacita T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Monk Sandals T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Newb Nation S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|RSG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rudimentary Extraction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Soul Steeler S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Robert Rowsam and Randall Chapman|
|Page Views:||1,402 total, 24/month|
|Shared By:||Rschap on Mar 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionPitch 1: Climb up the crack in a right-facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. The crux is low, but this stays pretty consistent 5.10 for most of the pitch. The dihedral leans right, so your feet are rarely in the crack if ever. One bolt down low but protects with gear the rest of the way.
Pitch 2: Continue up the dihedral on the left to a ledge then traverse the ledge left to the corner and head up to another ledge and a two bolt anchor. The rock quality in the corner was pretty bad so I place a few bolts for pro.
Pitch 3: Head up the chimney to the right with thin pro, mostly .4 and smaller cams. Fun .10+ move through the overhanging blocks then it eases up again. The top of the pitch turns into a squeeze that Robert fit through but I didnt, for those of us that are a little bigger you can continue up and over but its a bit more airy.
Pitch 4: Climb up the crack in the left facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. This is the crux pitch and probably the best pitch of the climb.
Pitch 5: This pitch has two options, on the right is a crack that is a little harder (5.10ish) but has better pro and on the left is a 5.8ish corner with some pro. Either way you go you want to head up the small chimney on the left to top out and dont follow the crack on the right to a large and loose block. Anchor on the big tree at the top.
Descent: Hike west (left) to a big drainage that takes you back down then follow the cliff back to the base of the climb.