5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Fritz Nuffer and Mickey Guziak|
|Page Views:||3,020 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Randall Chapman on Mar 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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Pitch 1: Climb up the crack in a right-facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. The crux is low, but this stays pretty consistent 5.10 for most of the pitch. The dihedral leans right, so your feet are rarely in the crack if ever. Two bolts down low but protects with gear the rest of the way.
Pitch 2: Continue up the dihedral on the left to a ledge then traverse the ledge left to the corner and head up to another ledge and a two bolt anchor. The rock quality in the corner was pretty bad so I place a few bolts for pro.
Pitch 3: Head up the chimney to the right with thin pro, mostly .4 and smaller cams, ballnutz are helpful but not necessary. Fun .10+ move through the overhanging blocks then it eases up again. The top of the pitch turns into a squeeze that Robert fit through but I didn't, for those of us that are a little bigger you can continue up and over but it's a bit more airy.
Pitch 4: Climb up the crack in the left facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. This is the crux pitch and probably the best pitch of the climb.
Pitch 5: This pitch has two options, on the right is a crack that is a little harder (5.10ish) but has better pro and on the left is a 5.8ish corner with some pro. Either way you go you want to head up the small chimney on the left to top out and don't follow the crack on the right to a large and loose block. Anchor on the big tree at the top.
Descent: Hike west (left) to a big drainage that takes you back down then follow the cliff back to the base of the climb. I don't recommend rappelling the route from the top, your rope is very likely to get stuck, a lot.