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Routes in Other Mothers

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Bunny Rabbit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boodalicious Baby T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dolphin Girl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First First T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mamacita T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monk Sandals T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newb Nation S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
RSG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rudimentary Extraction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Soul Steeler S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Robert Rowsam and Randall Chapman
Page Views: 1,402 total, 24/month
Shared By: Rschap on Mar 8, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1: Climb up the crack in a right-facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. The crux is low, but this stays pretty consistent 5.10 for most of the pitch. The dihedral leans right, so your feet are rarely in the crack if ever. One bolt down low but protects with gear the rest of the way.

Pitch 2: Continue up the dihedral on the left to a ledge then traverse the ledge left to the corner and head up to another ledge and a two bolt anchor. The rock quality in the corner was pretty bad so I place a few bolts for pro.

Pitch 3: Head up the chimney to the right with thin pro, mostly .4 and smaller cams. Fun .10+ move through the overhanging blocks then it eases up again. The top of the pitch turns into a squeeze that Robert fit through but I didn’t, for those of us that are a little bigger you can continue up and over but it’s a bit more airy.

Pitch 4: Climb up the crack in the left facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. This is the crux pitch and probably the best pitch of the climb.

Pitch 5: This pitch has two options, on the right is a crack that is a little harder (5.10ish) but has better pro and on the left is a 5.8ish corner with some pro. Either way you go you want to head up the small chimney on the left to top out and don’t follow the crack on the right to a large and loose block. Anchor on the big tree at the top.

Descent: Hike west (left) to a big drainage that takes you back down then follow the cliff back to the base of the climb.

Location

Follow the cliff 20 yards left of the Eclipse Route. The route starts in a flared-ish crack to a smallish ledge that leads up to a corner with a crack in it, 15 feet left of a big, downed tree you have to climb over.

Protection

Standard trad rack plus some small cams (0.4 and smaller) for the 3rd pitch, a couple of tricams would be useful down low. A couple of Big bros would make the top of the third pitch more comfortable.
Cairn Kiler
  5.10b/c
Cairn Kiler  
  5.10b/c
Very good route, great rock and some that you wish was better. Pitches 1, 4, and the straight up version of pitch 5 were all good, with pitch 4 being the most fun. Pitch three looks like it was cleaned a ton, but the rock quality still is not stellar.

Overall, great climb, props for the FA. Sep 10, 2015
Nick Scott
Vancouver, British Columbia
  5.10b/c
Nick Scott   Vancouver, British Columbia
  5.10b/c
Great route, fun moves, and the 4th pitch is sustained and stellar! The bolts on the 2nd pitch are a bit of an eyesore though. The rock is not as solid as on the other 4 pitches, but there are still plenty of options for good gear. In my opinion, the bolts are unnecessary. Nov 2, 2014
Ryan Martinek
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
Ryan Martinek   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
Finding the climb was a bit of a challenge. Definitely bring a full resolution picture of the whole route, the one with the colored lines that follow the climbs, and keep your eye out for that downed tree next to the wall. It had a stone on it when we were therem but that could potentially change.

The whole climb was great, but the fourth pitch was just awesome! Nov 2, 2014
Fritz N.
Durango, CO
Fritz N.   Durango, CO
Enjoyable route with fun movement and good gear. Plenty of great moments throughout, but the fourth pitch especially is sustained and beautiful. May 24, 2014