Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Randall Chapman
Page Views: 1,803 total · 20/month
Shared By: Randall Chapman on May 27, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) is shorter with only 5 bolts. I was going to take it higher, but the rock quality degrades above the anchor. The crux is at the 3rd bolt where you can either move left of the bolt or right, moving right is easier but more exposed. Stay right after the last bolt to avoid loose rock. The 2012 solar eclipse happened as I hand drilled the anchor after my battery went dead, hence the name.

There is a direct start variation to this route that goes at around 5.9. It can be done on toprope after leading the route. It starts in the corner below the third bolt. I did both starts on toprope before bolting the route and ultimately decided on the other start, because I felt it opened up both options better. I like to clip the chains, then lower, then toprope the direct start up to the third bolt and lower back off. This makes the route a little longer. It’s a fun variation with fun movement, definitely worth doing.

Location

The route starts 15 feet left of First First.

Protection

5 quickdraws.

Photos

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