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84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 23
votes
Routes in Other Mothers
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84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Bunny Rabbit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boodalicious Baby T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dolphin Girl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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First First T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mamacita T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Monk Sandals T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Myrna T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Newb Nation S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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RSG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rudimentary Extraction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Soul Steeler S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft |
| FA: | Randall Chapman |
| Page Views: | 1,803 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Randall Chapman on May 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) is shorter with only 5 bolts. I was going to take it higher, but the rock quality degrades above the anchor. The crux is at the 3rd bolt where you can either move left of the bolt or right, moving right is easier but more exposed. Stay right after the last bolt to avoid loose rock. The 2012 solar eclipse happened as I hand drilled the anchor after my battery went dead, hence the name.
There is a direct start variation to this route that goes at around 5.9. It can be done on toprope after leading the route. It starts in the corner below the third bolt. I did both starts on toprope before bolting the route and ultimately decided on the other start, because I felt it opened up both options better. I like to clip the chains, then lower, then toprope the direct start up to the third bolt and lower back off. This makes the route a little longer. It’s a fun variation with fun movement, definitely worth doing.
There is a direct start variation to this route that goes at around 5.9. It can be done on toprope after leading the route. It starts in the corner below the third bolt. I did both starts on toprope before bolting the route and ultimately decided on the other start, because I felt it opened up both options better. I like to clip the chains, then lower, then toprope the direct start up to the third bolt and lower back off. This makes the route a little longer. It’s a fun variation with fun movement, definitely worth doing.
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