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Routes in Other Mothers

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Bunny Rabbit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boodalicious Baby T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dolphin Girl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First First T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mamacita T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monk Sandals T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newb Nation S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
RSG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rudimentary Extraction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Soul Steeler S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Randall Chapman
Page Views: 1,378 total, 20/month
Shared By: Rschap on May 27, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Black Bunny Rabbit has 8 bolts and shares a 3 bolt anchor with First First. All but the last lead bolt were drilled by hand before I got a power drill. The start has a bad landing if you blow it before the first clip. You will either land on cactus or a fin of rock that sticks out of the ground, but the moves are relatively easy, you can stick clip if you don’t like it. It’s really close to First First in several places, but it stays right and follows the bolts till the end. If it looks like the bolt is too far right, you are too far left. Watch out for the cactus.

Location

This is 8 feet right of First First.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Rschap
Grand Junction, CO
Rschap   Grand Junction, CO
Thank you for your comment, David. I tried to clean as much of the loose rock from the route as I could. There was a lot to clean, so I probably missed some stuff. I did leave that big rock at the anchors there because I tried to pry it loose and it wouldn't move. It makes me nerves as well, but it seemed pretty stable at the time I put the route up. It might have to go at some point. As for the cactus, there is a lot of it, but there was a nice little clearing to stand and set up your anchor, so I left it alone. If someone was motivated to remove the cactus, I wouldn't be offended, but I do think it adds to the nature of the route, and I didn't really feel it was in the way. Sep 8, 2013
DavidCollins
Grand Junction, CO
 
DavidCollins   Grand Junction, CO
 
Nice route with good moves on generally good rock. The last few feet are loose and there is lot of cactus just beneath the anchors. And how stable is the large boulder beneath and right of the anchor? Sep 16, 2012