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Routes in The Fringe

Approach Pitch Left S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Approach Pitch Right S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bear My Soul S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behavior Issues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broad Border S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cowboy Bebop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cowboy Curse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grizzly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippie Vest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J Nasties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lunatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Outlier S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Semantics (AKA Some Antics) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Soul to Bear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer Session S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Summer Vacation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust Issues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trust Me, I Lie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Corner T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Michael Kimm, Spring 2012
Page Views: 608 total, 9/month
Shared By: Michael Kimm on May 17, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start in the bowl below Lunatic. 4th class it out left until in cracks below the pillar, then work these up until you can follow the steep splitter crack up and around the right side of it. Once on the pillar, follow the two bolts to the anchor of Lunatic.

Notes on the first ascent: I rapped in to remove a large rotten block that sat just after the horizontal layback section. Not having a large enough brush, the large flat ledge and surrounding holds that were left behind remained fairly sandy. The crack itself was flashed after this cleaning, clocking in at about 10c. Aside from the four foot section that had to be cleaned, the rock is solid, and climbs as good as it looks.
I had already climbed the two bolts off the pillar as part of the route Summer Vacation. Thus, me linking the Semantics crack into this route was not a flash proper.
All in all cool route requiring a variety of techniques: stemming, jams, laybacking, and steep face climbing, all in one 95 foot chunk of stone.

Protection

Single rack to 3", double 1"-3" if you really want to sew it up. Two bolts. Bolted anchor.

Photos

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Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
 
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
 
Saw a second ascent 2/17/14. Nice job Bob!
Bob told me he though the route was solid 5.11. I don't know if I agree with him, but there it is. A second opinion for anyone that wants it. Still a very worthwhile and varied climb! Feb 18, 2014