Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Michael Kimm, Summer 2011
Page Views: 2,622 total · 31/month
Shared By: Michael Kimm on May 17, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Start as for Hippie Vest. From the little tower, follow the diagonal seam and the corresponding boltline up and right to an anchor below a left facing corner. 5.10a.
Pitch 2: Climb the corner to a thin crux just below a large sloping ledge. Run it out up the easy wide crack (5.3) to an anchor. 5.9+.

Location

Rappel with one 60m rope.

Protection

Bolts to chains.

Photos

Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv
Eric-D   Las Vegas, nv
We did the 2nd pitch only after Broad Borders. I would rate the 2nd pitch as 5.9 or maybe 5.9+ on the one move over the bulge. May 31, 2012
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
agreed, second pitch is probably 5.9+/5.10-, but it might get harder below the crux as it's a bit crispy.

the first pitch is quite good, definitely harder than the second and more sustained as well. worth doing for sure. Oct 6, 2013
VERY DANGEROUS. This climb has a big hollow flake on it that you have to use to climb it. You can see light around both sides of the flake. There is even a bolt in the flake, maybe this is what's holding it to the wall.

Appropriately named route though. If you pull the flake off (which you probably will), you and/or your partner will have Behavioral Issues resulting from acute trauma, if either of you manage to survive. Nov 28, 2014
Michael Kimm
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Michael Kimm   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Umm.... There is no big hollow flake on this route. You're thinking of Trust me, I Lie, which crosses this line. The bolt that is "in the flake" is actually in a patch of completely solid rock between two hollow flakes. Yes, they're hollow. They also won't break unless you go up there with the express intention of removing them from the wall.
For anyone else that feels the need to spew vitriol about how dangerous things are on this wall: shut up. They're not. Period. The bolts and anchors are good. Might something break? Yep. Just like holds still break off trade routes at the Gallery nearly thirty years after the fact. You don't like the possibility of an edge snapping or a foot popping? Fine. Go deal with the crowds in the Corridor. But call something of mine UNSAFE because you can't climb gently or evaluate what's good or bad rock? Go to hell. Nov 30, 2014
MaxCat
 
MaxCat  
 
Very fun route. Thanks for putting these up Michael. As I posted on Hippie Vest...pretty annoyed by the safety comments on this wall. The bolts are perfectly good, the flake was fun, and the route was not scary. Lots of folks might be better of staying in the gym... Thank you, Michael, for putting these routes up! Mar 22, 2016
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
This was such a fun route. Nice work putting it up. I linked both pitches into a single long pitch with a 60m rope. We probably had about 7 feet of rope left over. Made two single rope rappels. There is a family of bats living in the crack at the start of pitch two. Thanks again for the route development. Jun 30, 2016