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Routes in The Fringe

Approach Pitch Left S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Approach Pitch Right S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bear My Soul S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Behavior Issues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broad Border S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cowboy Bebop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cowboy Curse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grizzly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippie Vest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J Nasties T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lunatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Outlier S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Semantics (AKA Some Antics) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Soul to Bear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer Session S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Summer Vacation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust Issues S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trust Me, I Lie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Corner T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Michael Kimm, Summer 2011
Page Views: 1,990 total, 30/month
Shared By: Michael Kimm on May 17, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb the boltline under and on the right side of the small tower on the left side of the slab. Make a thin move off the highest point of the tower (crux) and then follow the seams straight up to an anchor. 5.9.
Pitch 2: Follow the line straight up through mellow slab climbing with good varnish holds to a thin crux right below a large sloping ledge. Take the easier terrain to the anchor. 5.8

Location

Rappel the route with one 60m rope.

Protection

Bolts to chains.

Photos

Ali Hussein
Amman
5.9- R
Ali Hussein   Amman
5.9- R
the tower is like a 5.4 climb, so suck it and do it, it's really not that hard ! 17 hours ago
I must also say that the comments regarding the first pitch do not give this climb a fair shake. I do agree that the reaching the first bolt over the mud tower is a bit butt-puckering, but worth the effort. Far from the worst bolt I've seen, but with high feet, you can get really stable while clipping into the bolt. I also did not find the "mud tower" to be unstable, but to each his own. I agree it is only a matter of time though...Might actually make for an interesting start to the first pitch once it's gone.

Overall, the holds along the side of the mud tower, as well as the movement, were quite enjoyable. The climbing higher up was excellent and smooth sailing. I believe I saw one flake that was a bit hollow, but I found nothing else that concerned me. I also thought the bolting was excellent and well placed. For the few bolts above the mud tower, you will want to use runners to reduce rope drag.

Definitely worth a look. Nov 5, 2017
KrisG
Henderson, NV
 
KrisG   Henderson, NV
 
I only had time to do the first pitch with the tower, and it was awesome! What a cool feature that tower is. My partner and I thoroughly enjoyed this climb. I used some alpine draws to extend and reduce rope drag. Bolts were all solid, nothing to worry about there. Looking forward to going back and doing more at this crag. Thanks for developing! Oct 22, 2017
Leslie McG
  5.9 PG13
Leslie McG  
  5.9 PG13
This is one of the best 9's I have done. Thoughtful, flowy, and spicy. Definitely a thought provoking sequence that might seem easy to follow but gives you pause on lead. I agree with John- definitely don't want to blow the move off the tower. It's all there, but between the fragile rock and knowing where the last bolt is, it can be very heady if you're not solid on technical small stuff. That being said, if you like that style you cannot ask for a better climb at the grade. Apr 5, 2017
MaxCat
 
MaxCat  
 
My final climb on the wall before the rain came...combined both pitches with one 70m and skipped some bolts. Really confused and surprised by some of the comments. I'm a 5.10/5.11 leader and thought that 1) the bolt off the tower was not difficult to get to and 2) the bolts were all fine. Ironically, I read the negative reviews, then tied in and found out for myself. It's all good and a very fun route; don't judge a book by its cover and don't judge a climb from the ground... Mar 22, 2016
Nice mud tower. The top block on it moves to the touch. Nov 28, 2014
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
 
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
 
The bolts are good. If you think I don't test the rock before drilling you're out of your mind. Jun 1, 2014
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
I didn't climb this one, but looking from below, the second to last bolt on the first pitch looks like its placed very poorly. It almost looks like it is placed on a flake that will go if pulled too hard, let alone fell on May 29, 2014
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
 
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
 
Did only the first pitch on 4/2/14 and found the tower scary. More loose flakes higher up on pitch one. Apr 7, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
I've done this route twice now and probably won't repeat it again. while the last 30 feet or so are good, the first 40 are scary and nerve racking.

if you're going to get on this, be solid at 5.10, as getting to the bolt above the tower is pretty hard and the fall consequences are high.

I also agree on the tower. I'll be curious to see how long that thing sticks around.

the second pitch is good, worth doing if you go up the first. Apr 20, 2013
Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv
Eric-D   Las Vegas, nv
Everything about the tower scares the crap out of me. I swear I could feel it move under my feet. The climbing is not hard but I could not get comfortable until i was above the tower. Glad I wasn't the one standing under it to belay. Jun 28, 2012