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Routes in Sandstone Buttress

Ancient Graffiti T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Group Grope T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gunky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentinal Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
honey comb haulbags T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Randy Cerf, Scott Fisher, Mike Allison 1978
Page Views: 518 total · 7/month
Shared By: matt j hartman on Apr 5, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Route to the right Honeycomb, left of Sentinel Chimney. A classic trad testpiece from the late 1970's. Once a bold route, not pretty tame from retro bolts on all pitches. Gets and R rating in Lander Rock 2nd edition. Very well protected with a light rack and bolts.
p1- Climb steep wall past retrobolts to finger crack to hands to an anchor with drop-ins. 100' 5.9. Good pitch on its own. Once very bold....
p2- Steep corner (hands) to bolt above roof with really odd mantel-back flop-stem move. Wild. Clip bolt before committing to move. Soft rock to finger- hand section, then traverse left (look for bolt above final traverse (10a) to belay, or link with p3. 70 ft.
p3- If you used long runner to prevent rope drag, this pitch can be climbed with p2. Some face moves past 3 bolts to rap anchor. Once a bold lead with one pin over the ledge, now a bolt ladder. Maybe 10c, more like 10b. Rap route. A little sandy in a few spots, but really cool movement and exposure for the length. Even with the retrobolts, this takes trad skills but is pretty darn safe.

Location

Left Sentinel Chimney, right if Honeycomb. There is long line of new camo-bolts left thru a roof up high(???). A neglected sinks canyon experience. The Sandstone was once "the crag".

Protection

I set cams fingers to 3. Some long slings and QD's.

Photos

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