Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,163 total · 9/month
Shared By: tetonalpinist on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A short (15 foot) squeeze chimney leads to a large ledge. Continue up a narrow dihedral and a hand crack to another ledge. Follow face holds and a hand crack up to the chimney proper. Climb the chimney to a significant ledge. From here, climb right into a small chimney, then traverse up and left towards the break in an overhand. Climb up between the overhand and the cliff wall at it's smallest point to another ledge. Then climb up easy slabs to the top.

Location

Walk along the ledge at the base of the sandstone buttress until it is possible to see a prominent chimney. If you are wondering if it is a chimney, you haven't seen it yet.

Protection

There is one bolt on the first ledge. Two bolt belay on the second ledge. Two bolts in the second chimney. Two bolt belay on the third ledge. One bolt in the third chimney. Two bolt belay on the fourth ledge. There is a two bolt belay at the top. This climb is bolted to death, and there are plenty of options for placing traditional protection. You could rapel this route with a 30m rope.

Photos

- No Photos -
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
  5.7
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
  5.7
I did this climb a couple of days ago for the first time since around 1995. Geez, who put in all those fucking bolts? I suspect it was those NOLS weenies.

Anyway, this is a fun climb. The stem out of the cave thing on the second pitch is pretty cool. Take a #4 camalot and really sew it up. Mar 17, 2011
bob, around 2004 tom hargis started to retro some of the old classics there and bolted new sport lines to the right of gunky. it was really odd as one weekend we were up there and there was no bolts and the next there were bolts all over the place. Oct 7, 2011
matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
this thing is littered with belay bolts, like 4 pitches in 200 feet. fun though. Jun 7, 2013
I don't think NOLS would bolt any sort of Trad climb. NOLS climbing courses are specifically for Trad climbing, building anchors and rappelling. So I would guess its a climber that wanted to make the climb very accessible to anyone. Sep 24, 2013
Cameron Sumpter
Lander, WY
Cameron Sumpter   Lander, WY
Wow - this thing is bolted to death. Climbed it on 3/31/15. You can rap from the top with a 70m to the 2nd pitch anchors, and then to the ground.

Link the 2nd and 3rd pitches together. The first pitch does climb through that awful little bush. Apr 2, 2015
Matt.H Haron  
 
I take a .75 #3, two draws and gear for bolted anchors. Sure you could put in a #4, oh and a number 2 goes in on P1, but then the crack gets real wide (bigger than a 6). Fun times though. Aug 30, 2015