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Routes in Sandstone Buttress

Ancient Graffiti T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Group Grope T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gunky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentinal Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Standard Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
honey comb haulbags T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,005 total, 36/month
Shared By: tetonalpinist on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Follow the prominent right facing corner system through liebacks, off widths, flakes and over a roof. Crux is a 5.8 roof 10 feet over your last good piece.

Location

Park at the first parking area on your right as you enter Sinks Canyon. Look up at the wall and find the REALLY prominent corner system.

Protection

Trad gear. There is a two bolt belay 150 feet up. and two bolts at the top.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The first set of anchors allows a good view of follower up most of the first pitch and allows decent with a single 60. Also makes the second pitch longer and more interesting. Walking off from the top is also an option. Bechtel guide is sorely lacking in rappel length info for multi-pitch routes on the Sinks sandstone. Aug 3, 2016
Amazing variety and exposure. That roof move everyone talks about was the highlight of the route for me! I would totally give this 4 stars...if the 2nd pitch was anywhere near as good as the first, but it's kind of silly, way too short, and probably goes at 5.6 or so.

Note: The first set of bolts you come to are rappel anchors, if you keep climbing the hand crack at this point, you will find some BOMBER chains on a ledge that you could walk around unroped on. Belay from these if you want a little more comfort. I could have comfortably reached the chains with my 70m rope, I'm not sure if a 60m would work or not.

That said, I didn't know that and belayed from the rappel anchors, and it wasn't bad or uncomfortable. You can watch your follower from here for about 80% of the climb :)

A rack of singles from finger pieces up to a C4 #4 should suffice. A medium-large stopper will protect the roof. I used the largest Wild Country Superlight Offset Rock (It's silver colored). Jun 15, 2016
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
 
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
 
The sandy, pocketed slab below the starting ledge goes at about 5.7R and is rather fun too Sep 3, 2014
matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
paul rachele must be light duty. Mar 2, 2013
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
  5.8
Sagar Gondalia   Golden
  5.8
I echo this not being PG13. Great gear the whole way. Great varied climbing. Oct 13, 2012
Dapper Dan Rogers
Driggs, ID
 
Dapper Dan Rogers   Driggs, ID
 
The roof stopper beta is spot on! Seemed like good pro the whole way up. May 2, 2012
pheindel Heindel  
  5.8
Not PG13, placements are plentiful and solid Jan 7, 2012
Excellent route that can be lead with all passive gear. A selection of medium to large hexes, a set of nuts, and some tri-cams should prepare the leader well. Worth the trip. Dec 18, 2009
Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8
Eli Kramer   Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8
Tom's right. I did it learning how to lead. Placements were solid and not hard to find. Aug 25, 2009
Kyle P.
Lander, WY
Kyle P.   Lander, WY
Bomber medium stopper over the roof. Place it before going over. You don't even have to see it, just drop it in, tug it, and go. Apr 10, 2009
Tom Rangitsch
Lander, WY
 
Tom Rangitsch   Lander, WY
 
I don't think Gunky is PG13. It has good gear the whole way if I remember correctly. The route is a bit sandy, but safe. Don't be detoured as the route is really worth doing and a fun outing. Sep 30, 2008