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Routes in 4. The Buttress

Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fool on a Hill T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watusi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Hugo Stadmuller and John Porter, 1963
Page Views: 1,851 total · 23/month
Shared By: dragons on Mar 18, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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The route gets progressively harder the higher you climb. I've only been up it about halfway. The lower part of the route is slightly overhung but with plenty of holds and good feet. The holds get thinner as you climb up.


The route starts about 15 feet to the right of the corner where Buttress wall meets Fisherman's Wall, where "Tarzan" and "Fool on the Hill" routes start.

Climb up a jagged boulder. Just above the boulder, the rock face is light with some rusty, horizontal streaks. There is a shallow dihedral at your left. Climb it and keep going up perhaps 15 feet. Then veer right perhaps 5-10 feet (this is where I stopped, so the rest is hearsay), then veer left to get to the ledge.

This info was garnered from Boston Rocks 2nd edition and also Rock Climbing New England guidebook. There's a 2-bolt chain anchor on the ledge, used for both Fool on a Hill and Buttress. The route continues up past a bolt, but it's reported that the climb becomes 5.10 from here and has poor protection, hence the R rating.


Use a top rope.
The Buttress to the chains is a fine route at 5.8+ with G protection. Stepping up to gain the ramp to the Chimney from the right side of the ledge with the chains is definitely R rated with ankle breaking potential. The bolt is poorly placed and should be 2 & 1/2 feet higher. I have only successfully climbed to the ramp this way on top rope. I have gone up to lead climb to the ramp several times over the years but always backed off. I would rate the moves 5.9+ with definite ledge impact if you blow the moves. May 29, 2012
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
One of my favorite routes at Crow Hill. Was surprised to see it only get 2 stars on here. I find it easier than most of the 5.8 climbs here. Apr 5, 2013
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
Protection is adequate for a safe lead to the chains. There are several excellent horizontals for small cams, with decent stances for making the placement. Camp Tri-Cams work great on this route! Jun 10, 2013

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