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Routes in 4. The Buttress

Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fool on a Hill T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watusi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Sam Streibert, Steve Arsenault
Page Views: 229 total · 4/month
Shared By: JD1984 on Jun 10, 2013
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route

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This is a varied climb on the Buttress wall, around the corner to the right of the route Buttress. The route wanders up dark colored rock around an obvious roof to a thin face with good crimps. A ramp leads to the ledge at the base of The Nose. Combine both routes for a pumpy 5.9 link up! Watusi is fairly stout at the grade compared to other areas in MA (Farley's, for instance). I found it to be easier than Fool on a Hill (5.9+) but harder than Buttress (5.9).


This is on the Buttress Wall to the right of Buttress route.


Two pins can be found: one at the lower overhang which seems okay and a very questionable pin at the mantle which makes the top of the ramp. The pro is rather scarce, but the route is often led when it is dry.


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kevin neville
Somerville, MA
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
Decent climbing but very dirty. I found the pro to be adequate but sometimes off to the side; likewise the climbing sometimes moved laterally before going up again, so bring several slings. Especially near the end, the easier line to climb was on left, then moved back right and up to the belay ledge. Birds of Fire, between this and the chimney, provides a nice alternative start. Aug 5, 2013
FA - Sam Streibert, Steve Arsenault. Jun 4, 2015

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