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Routes in 4. The Buttress

Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fool on a Hill T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watusi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Sam Streibert, Steve Arsenault
Page Views: 318 total · 5/month
Shared By: JD1984 on Jun 10, 2013
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

This is a varied climb on the Buttress wall, around the corner to the right of the route Buttress. The route wanders up dark colored rock around an obvious roof to a thin face with good crimps. A ramp leads to the ledge at the base of The Nose. Combine both routes for a pumpy 5.9 link up! Watusi is fairly stout at the grade compared to other areas in MA (Farley's, for instance). I found it to be easier than Fool on a Hill (5.9+) but harder than Buttress (5.9).

Location

This is on the Buttress Wall to the right of Buttress route.

Protection

Two pins can be found: one at the lower overhang which seems okay and a very questionable pin at the mantle which makes the top of the ramp. The pro is rather scarce, but the route is often led when it is dry.

Photos

kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
  5.9
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
  5.9
Decent climbing but very dirty. I found the pro to be adequate but sometimes off to the side; likewise the climbing sometimes moved laterally before going up again, so bring several slings. Especially near the end, the easier line to climb was on left, then moved back right and up to the belay ledge. Birds of Fire, between this and the chimney, provides a nice alternative start. Aug 5, 2013
FA - Sam Streibert, Steve Arsenault. Jun 4, 2015
TommyB  
Does this climb start right where the big rock fell a couple years ago? I added a photo to where I think it starts. Fun climb and multiple options which was good to get good use out of one toprope setup. May 15, 2018
losbill
  5.9 PG13
losbill  
  5.9 PG13
Your rope is hanging on Birds Of Fire. It starts up where the cave fell and follows the line of the right rope through the little, right-facing corner to gain a small ledge. It then breaks to the right and then up. Most people move left and finish on Watusi. The line for continuing on BOF is not obvious. Make sure you have a small cam (yellow Alien?) with you for this bit.

Watusi starts about 10 feet to the left, pretty much just on the right side of the arete formed by the Watusi face and the Fool/Buttress face. Move up to the fold topped by a small roof. You can see this feature in you photo. It is on the left side of the block your left rope runs down. Pass the roof on the right, gaining the top of the block. Move left and up to gain slab. Straight up slab to small, right-facing corner, small cam helpful here, and finish up short crack. Alternatively move left and up to gain right rising horizontal crack, and use it to gain the RFC. Continue and finish on The Nose or The Chimney. May 15, 2018

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