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Routes in North Star Wall

Black Magic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break it Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Childhood's Beginning T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Childhood's End T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free and Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ice Pirates S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Look Ma no Hands S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 180 total, 3/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Another Summit obscurity. This right-facing corner acts as a water funnel in early-season, and gets fairly dirty. However, when it cleans up, it's fantastic. Killer stemming dihedral to slightly less-vertical section. If this route ever got any traffic, it would be the best .10a on the Summit.

Location

Obvious black dihedral between 2 bolted routes.

Protection

Gear to 3", 2 fixed pins (can place gear right next to them), chain anchors.

Photos

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kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
Fun route, thoughtful climbing. A little dirty but nothing bad (at least in the fall)

No pins but good gear the whole way. There is a very hollow flake right before the anchors, so be gentle, or stay to the left to avoid it. Sep 10, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The pins may have pulled, I didn't see them. Very cool stem climbing on Tuolomne-esque pebbles with some jamming thrown in. It is hard to tell from below but it protects very well with small cams in the dihedral.

I came out a little moss sprinkled at the end, but besides a little seep at the bottom, this line climbs great. Overall this North Star Wall area is deserving of more traffic from the 5.10 leader and boasts fun to classic climbs. May 14, 2016