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Routes in North Star Wall

After School Special T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Black Magic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break it Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Childhood's Beginning T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Childhood's End T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free And Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Life, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ice Pirates S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kids With Guns S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Look Ma No Hands S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rhinestone Desperado S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad
FA: Karl Hammer, John Hoffman, Paul Firestone
Page Views: 977 total · 9/month
Shared By: urs on Aug 3, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description

This beautiful dihedral is one of the few 5.8 splinter finger cracks at Donner Summit and follows a thin splinter finger crack on the arete and then traverses into the dihedral. Sustained and a bit tricky for the grade, but holds solid pro.

Location

This is located to the right of Childhood's End 5.10d and starts the same as childhood's End. Scramble up 5th class to the flat ledge about 1/3 the way up the cliff. Instead of entering the dihedral follow 2 parrelel cracks on the right to the top of a huge ledge then follow the thin splinger finger crack on the arete to the top.

Protection

Small pieces consisting of mostly TCU's and some cams up to 1 inch. Rap anchor.

Photos

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We did this last weekend. Not sure that I understand your route description entirely, but I'm sure there are variations. Anyhow, we took a very direct approach to get to the base of the Childhood's Beginning dihedral. The upper crack runs out of rock before the top, however. There's no more pro out on the arete, so my partner crossed over into the dihedral after manteling up onto the arete; I stepped across one or two body lengths below, and gained the dihedral just above the bush. Fun route. Aug 20, 2009
kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
Gaining the dihedral just above the bush is the way to go. There's even a nice ledge to traverse on.

There's bolted rap anchors at the top now. Sep 10, 2017

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