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Routes in North Star Wall

Black Magic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break it Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Childhood's Beginning T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Childhood's End T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free and Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ice Pirates S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Look Ma no Hands S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 279 total, 3/month
Shared By: urs on Aug 3, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This holds one of the most cleanest and spectacular dihedrals in Donner Summit. Beautiful hand jams solid feet make this 5.10 looking dihedral 5.6. The downside is that the dihedral section is only about 15ft high and the rest of the route only gets one star.
If only the dihedral section was a hundred foot route, this would probally be one of the best climbs.

Location

This is located to the far right of Childhood's Beginning and has and ok start into a 4 star dihedral hand crack.

Protection

Thin pieces with some TCU's for the bottom. The dihedral takes small cams up to 2 inches. Same as the other routes, there is no bolted anchor.

Photos

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Fun climbing. It has somewhat of a bouldery, unprotected start the way I did it. Intermittent protection, so, yes, you would essentially want to be comfortable with soloing 5.6 to lead this. The dihedral crack is so money. If it went for a 100' this would be a moderate leader's wet dream. Dec 2, 2012
FYI, the first 2/3 of the route don't offer a lot of protection for the aspiring 5.6 leader. Aug 20, 2009