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Routes in North Star Wall

Black Magic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break it Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Childhood's Beginning T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Childhood's End T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free and Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ice Pirates S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Look Ma no Hands S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 178 total, 2/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

Break it Out is a somewhat discontinuous, mostly dihedral crack system that keeps throwing liebacks, some thin crack and even a bit of the offwidth at you to keep you honest. Honestly, it is a pretty awkward lead and a bit of a head sketch at times because the knobby rock here seems a bit brittle and placements therefore can seem slightly suspect.

Nonetheless, it is fairly good climbing that'll get you nice and warmed up.

Location

On the far left side of North Star Walls, the crack system just right of the bolted slab arete, Diamond in the Rough.

Protection

doubles from fingers to 3". One 4" piece rec'd. Chain anchors.

Photos

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Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I may need to amend the anchor situation I posted in the description if nobody fills me in, but I just climbed this yesterday and we didn't find the anchors this time (I followed). So either they have been yanked or we just suck. I can say that there are anchors to the right for Ice Pirates (not a good option at all - actually directly level with and to the right of where you do the final mantle) and Black Magic (a better option but you really need to protect from the pendulum) but you will want to protect the traverse either way. Alternately, you can set up your own anchor somewhere up top then either rap off the Fire Opal anchors (not a bad fourth class scramble) or walk off the top. May 14, 2016
Sean Garecht
Reno, NV
 
Sean Garecht   Reno, NV
 
I found this route to be fantastic. Great variety of moves, layback, OW, and some finger crack.

However, will someone please put in new anchor bolts. The current ones are the older style pins and they are glued in! I backed up the anchor with a 2 and .75 Oct 13, 2014
J. Hickok
  5.10a
J. Hickok  
  5.10a
I know the crux is short and low on the route, but it might as well be called 10a. Aug 16, 2013