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Routes in North Star Wall

Black Magic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break it Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Childhood's Beginning T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Childhood's End T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free and Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ice Pirates S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Look Ma no Hands S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 616 total, 6/month
Shared By: urs on Aug 3, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This is one of the best 5.10+ trad routes at Donner and is very similar to the routes on Devil's Tower in Wyoming except much shorter. The crux is continuous through the first dihedral on thin lyebacks and small finger locks. Scramble up 5th class to the base of the dihedral and belay on a flat ledge about 1/3 of the way up the cliff. This route looks impossible to protect from the base, but holds solid pro.

Location

This is the first obvious dihedral on the wall and is the left dihedral of the two.

Protection

Small pieces ranging from nuts, TCU's, and a few larger cams up to 1 inch. There is not a bolted anchor, therefor you have to walk off. Traverse right from the top and follow the ledges to the PCT trail then scramble down to the base of the route.

Photos

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kendallt
Tahoe
kendallt   Tahoe
Fun route. Good gear before the crux, then gun it for about 15ft. There may be some micro nuts to be placed in that section, but it would be very strenuous placements.

There's bolted rap anchors at the top now. Sep 10, 2017