Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Josh Wharton, Scott Decapio, and Will Ferrell|
|Page Views:||2,700 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||j wharton on Mar 9, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Despite the video of this route in the comments area below, the first ascent was down ground up with no prior inspection, or pre-placed gear, so rest assured that the route is totally reasonable for an onsight attempt.
Begin with the obscure summer rock route Dragon Slayer. A good topo of this route can be found in Gillett's most recent guide to the RMNP high peaks.
P1: Climb the tips (well tools really) to (cold) hands splitter for 100', and belay off a chockstone and #3 Camalot on a sloping ledge. M6-7.
P2: Climb the steep, wide flake for 50', and then traverse straight right across a chossy ledge for 30' to a fixed pin and stopper (Dragon Slayer keeps heading upward at the start of this traverse.) The traverse is easy, but spicy, look for an okay #3 Camalot hidden down and right for the final pull onto the sloping ledge. A fixed pin and stopper mark the belay. M6-7.
P3: "It's gonna get weird." Cool climbing up the steep corners above, with suprisingly decent rock and pro. The crux is pulling through the flared roof above the "Dragon's Nest," which is followed by some nice hummock climbing up easier terrain. This is a long pitch (180'), which could be broken up if needed. M7.
At this point, you will join the "South Ridge 5.7" route at approximately the fourth yellow dot in the overview photo of the south side of Flattop. Real Dragon's might continue via this route to the summit, but we walked left along the ledge and did a one rope rap down to walking terrain. (You must traverse far to skiers' right, and then back left across a ledge system if you want to get back to the base of the route.)