M5-6 Steep Snow
Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||JD Merritt and Erik Rieger, 2013|
|Page Views:||2,038 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||erik rieger on Mar 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
To reach the climbing, gain about 1,400' of vert from Emerald Lake via easy snow and some moderate rock to reach the upper southeast couloir. After surmounting a large chockstone, the couloir continues up and right whereas this line breaks left onto the steep wall below another car-sized chockstone.
Pitch 1: Climb past the chockstone on the left, then trend up through broken terrain interspersed with harder moves toward the arete. Surmount the arete with great exposure, using face holds to pull onto an angled ledge (35m, M5).
Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the belay toward a large corner system swinging into a smattering of frozen turf and ice. Pull over a large chockstone and continue up a snowy chimney (30m, M4).
Pitch 3: Continue straight up the right-facing corner and chimney system, pulling two short but steep cruxes with good gear (30m, M5/6).
Pitch 4: Continue up the chimney and over a loose bulge and climb an easy slope to the summit (30m, M4).
Overall, a good mixture of easy vertical and some technical climbing. Expect a half to full day round trip, some loose rock, large snow mushrooms, and of course there can be considerable avalanche hazard.
Descend the Flattop Trail to Bear Lake.