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Routes in Flattop Mountain - S side

Baby Dragon T M6
Dragon's Tail Couloir T WI2 M2
Dragon's Tooth T M2-
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4
South East Face Couloir aka S-Couloir T M1-2 PG13
Southeast Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2+ M1
Steep Is Flat T M5-6
Two Dragons T M7
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: JD Merritt and Erik Rieger, 2013
Page Views: 1,306 total, 22/month
Shared By: erik rieger on Mar 8, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route climbs four pitches up the chimney system on the steep upper wall of Flattop's southeast face. It makes for a good mid-late winter climb, especially in windy or cold weather due to its generally sheltered and sunny aspect.

To reach the climbing, gain about 1,400' of vert from Emerald Lake via easy snow and some moderate rock to reach the upper southeast couloir. After surmounting a large chockstone, the couloir continues up and right whereas this line breaks left onto the steep wall below another car-sized chockstone.

Pitch 1: Climb past the chockstone on the left, then trend up through broken terrain interspersed with harder moves toward the arete. Surmount the arete with great exposure, using face holds to pull onto an angled ledge (35m, M5).

Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the belay toward a large corner system swinging into a smattering of frozen turf and ice. Pull over a large chockstone and continue up a snowy chimney (30m, M4).

Pitch 3: Continue straight up the right-facing corner and chimney system, pulling two short but steep cruxes with good gear (30m, M5/6).

Pitch 4: Continue up the chimney and over a loose bulge and climb an easy slope to the summit (30m, M4).

Overall, a good mixture of easy vertical and some technical climbing. Expect a half to full day round trip, some loose rock, large snow mushrooms, and of course there can be considerable avalanche hazard.

Descend the Flattop Trail to Bear Lake.

Location

Choose your own adventure to reach the narrow couloir below the center of the headwall on the southeast face.

Protection

Standard winter rack.
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Once the first pitch is done, you're tunneled into a large chimney/corner system, and you'd have to try really hard to break from the line. So I'm a bit confused how you could climb the same route "differently." The climbing is steeper and more serious than the old route. Mar 14, 2013
Did this route last year with different variations.... Great winter mountain route.... Almost better that the old route.... Mar 13, 2013