Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Ward Smith 08/01
Page Views: 1,033 total · 7/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Mar 8, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

3 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This thing comes at you from all angles. It is just as tricky as it is powerful! But over all a bouldery adventure, thought i had it pretty well figured out til i got on it, then i figured out that i was wrong, haha... Once i did work it out i was pleased with the interesting strong movements.

Climb the steep arete and face past the 1st bolt. Sink in to a kneebar rest then engage in the second half of the crux. past 2 more bolts and on to an easier finish.

The only thing i didnt like about this route is the last 10 feet, or maybe just the anchor placement. It looks like you are supposed to move left and go to the chains directly but the more obvious climbing goes straight up and you can gain the chains from there easily after topping out the cliff. I'd say just do it however you like and it is still very much 5.12c. enjoy the ride.

Location Suggest change

The right side of the Asylum crag. Look for the nice sharp arete.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts to chains with fixed biners.