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Routes in The Asylum

Asylum, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
BBQ for Buddha S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Surgery 101 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cuckoo's Nest S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Had a Good Name, But I Forgot (AKA for Lee, 'The route with the Epic Name') S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pile-o-mania S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ward Smith 7/96
Page Views: 810 total, 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I don't know what the name refers to, but this route is not a "pile" the way I use the word to describe a climb. And though its not a classic either it would be considered worthwhile by most climbers I know. It is split in two parts by a cozy ledge at the halfway point. Both parts are fun, but the upper section rules.

To the right of Cuckoo's Nest start near a large tree and climb flake edges up and left to a good stance at a crimpy face. Climb some 5.10 crimp moves up to the ledge and move right to mantel it. Shake it out if you need to and make easy wondering moves until you find yourself at the right end of an intimidating traverse left. You would think that you would jam the crack but there are perfect pinches spaced along the 15 foot traverse that are perfect to pinch and lay back off of. There are no feet to speak of but the wall has good friction. If you get tired, stick a kneebar and take a shake. The anchors await just over the top of the flake.

Location

Right next to Cuckoo's Nest. Look up for the huge flake.

Protection

7 bolts to chains with fixed biners. The last bolt might be hard to get to for a short climber but you are still safe.
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10d
Totally worth going to The Asylum. I like routes that have their own identity. Feb 19, 2014
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
 
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
 
I climbed this fantastic route at the end of a long day this November! Super fun all the way, the top rules and its one of the gems for sure in the upper crag areas....Once you pull around the traverse (sweet heel hook) lots of lichen!
Nov 22, 2013
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
 
Tyson Miller   Lebanon, NH
 
Upper section on this climb is really fun. Really fun climb. Jun 3, 2012