Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Shimberg 1990
Page Views: 267 total · 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 1, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

An interesting route, I found it to have a few quirks that I wasn't that in to but it had some really fun moves. I found it to be reachy (and I'm 6' 2") and the bolt placement seemed a little weird. The first 2 bolts are good. The 3rd bolt felt like it could get you in to ground fall zone. The 3rd and 4th were off to the left farther than I thought they should be. The anchors were really hard to reach from what I saw as the finishing hold. That being said, the climbing it self was engaging mentally and physically and is very worth while if you can look past the quirks listed above.

Start up a technical face on pretty good holds that are sometimes far apart. After about 4 bolts the wall kicks back big time and you tackle a juggy roof to the anchors. Luckily there is a cool little cave rest at the transition from technical face to roof. So nestle in for a rest before punching it to the chains.

Location

The left trending route on the far left end of the steep main wall at The Asylum.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors. Fixed lower biners in place when I was there.

Photos

Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
 
Tyson Miller   Lebanon, NH
 
Fun route, 4 stars if the bolts were placed a little differently. Jun 3, 2012
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
Agree that the bolting doesn't make sense. You're always clipping a bolt like four feet to the left and at your knees if you stay on the logical line. Moves felt really hard and the bolts pulled you off the natural line and made them harder.

Top corner where the chains are is super overgrown with lichen. BETA SPOILER: A thin flake just to the right of the chains might help with clipping them if you do not have arms as long as Lee's. Might be overgrown. Jun 20, 2016
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
I think these bolts are suffering from galvanic corrosion. The hangers are stainless, but the bolts are not. It makes sense that they're in bad shape after 30 years. Rebolting this thing would render an ugly route classic. Nov 19, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11c
Yeah, a good candidate for a retro-bolting for safety with some adjustment to bolt placement for enjoyability. Dec 3, 2018