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I Had a Good Name, But I Forgot (AKA for Lee, 'The route with the Epic Name')

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British


 Avg: 3.1 from 11 votes

Routes in The Asylum

Asylum, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
BBQ for Buddha S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brain Surgery 101 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cuckoo's Nest S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Had a Good Name, But I Forgot (AKA for Lee, 'The route with the Epic Name') S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pile-o-mania S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 1,096 total, 17/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Jun 9, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Crux is near the 3rd bolt
-solid sustained route may be more like 11+
-well worth getting on this route
-interesting/varied moves

Location

this route is just left of the 5.12c that climbs the arete
-3rd route from the right on The Asylum

Protection

bolts, some run out near the end but the bolts are enough

Photos

Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Mark, any chance that you thought of a new name prior to the new guidebook going to the printer's? Lee's right -- this is a great route and deserves a really good name. How about "Excalibur" or "Fight Club" or "Rabid Raccoon"? Aug 1, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11c
Yeah! Machine Head was one i had to think on... that mantel is pretty sweet... i guess that could replace man with the hueco or at least match it...
as far as no hands rests, i think thats one of the things that makes a route a rumney classic haha... think of our best routes there are very few that are not stacked boulder problems... many have said rumney is like bouldering on a rope :) Aug 15, 2012
S. Neoh  
Continuing to stay off topic (:)) - Lee, I almost offered Buried Treasure too but I thought the insecure start detracts a bit, not to mention the occasional marauding Raven near the top.
Funny, I only remember one really good rest on RS. Perhpas I did not look hard enough. For route description, ChrisD wrote "Classic blunt arete climbing that is unrelenting and not so straight forward." I have to agree.

Many routes considred classics at Rumney have one really good rest; Peer Pressure, Social Outcast just to name two from Bonsai alone.

And, Lee, how about Machine Head? A little short too but that insecure mantle at the end .... yikes! Aug 15, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11c
and as far as the 11s at summit go, i find them to be great climbs that just dont see enough traffic... a little over grown and dirty or crumbly in spots but if we climb them that will change!
The gospel according to mark is my fave... but they are all worth doing... northern lights is the dirtiest and most over grown but if it was clean it would be spectacular! Aug 15, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11c
yeah, to be honest, man with the hueco was the only one i wasnt sure about on the list... pulse has a very solid place on my list even though its short... as far as long routes retro spade and buried treasure were both considered but i couldn't decide... either way its all just a rough list to show the kind of routes i find this one to be on par with :) Aug 15, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Retro Spade = 3 boulder problems with full rests between, no? Very quality and uniquely Rumney-esque, no doubt, but if you suggest that the short routes aren't as classic, it's funny that you'd also suggest a route made of stacked boulder problems to replace them!

On another note, summit cliff looks stacked with some awesome 11's, and I can't wait to get up there this fall. Aug 15, 2012
S. Neoh  
A fine list, Lee. Though there are a few on the list that I have yet to sample, I mostly agree with your choices for Rumney's finest. I would however consider removing shorties like Pulse and Heuco and replace them with longer routes. And include Retro Spade, no? Aug 15, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11c
yes mark one of my faves... prompted by your comment i ran some numbers... i know of 103 5.11s at rumney, ive done 93 of them and at long last the list is in!
lee's favorite 11's at rumney:
apocalypse later
black mamba
flying hawaiian
high roller
lions and tigers and bears, oh my
nikki's crack
prime climb
pulse
salley's alley
the crusher
the man with the hueco
tropicana
and this incredibly fun route! thanks mark!
this was just a quick list there are other great one's :)
hahaha yes i have way too much time to think! Aug 14, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
One of the best 11s at Rumney? I think it is fun and glad you liked it, but you must have been having an awfully good day! : ) Aug 14, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11c
Amazing climbing! to me its a 4 star route with a 1 star name (sorry mark this gem deserves a bomber name)... one of the best 11s at rumney in my opinion (and ive climbed almost all of them) great flow of movement, powerful and technical, pumpy but with a few rests thrown in there...
i milked a sneaky kneebar to the right of the 2nd bolt which made it feel right on in the grade...
the lower holds were dusty and i brushed em off on the way down... the top had a little film of growth on it but wasnt bad since its not hard up there... Aug 13, 2012
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
title fixed and the route was clean Jun 11, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Thanks.It is actually "I had a Good Name...", slight differance. When I was on it last a few years ago, It seemed like it could use a little recleaning, but that was mostly on the upper, easier part. Jun 11, 2012
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
great route Mark! Jun 9, 2012