Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,175 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Dec 19, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is one of Cape Ann's best crack climbs! Start below the crack, it may look a bit moist, but it can be easily be gotten around without getting wet. Start out as if you were going to Ruby Slippers, but take the beautiful, obvious crack of Tin Man to the top.

Location

This is the obvious crack to the right of Ruby Slippers on the left face of Oz.

Protection

Gear and TR anchors.

Photos

chris21
  5.7
chris21  
  5.7
The crack was a little wet and full of pine needles and cob webs when I did it. I actually brought a small stick up with me to clean webs out of the crack. If it were clean and/or longer, it would probably get another star. All of the other routes here were covered with moss. Jun 11, 2013
chris21
  5.7
chris21  
  5.7
I placed a tricam in the horizontal (brown or red I don't remember) then a couple BD 0.75s and mabye a 0.5 in the crack. Jun 11, 2013
ZB 4yr
Watertown, Massachusetts
 
ZB 4yr   Watertown, Massachusetts
 
Climb this! Great jam practice. The start is perhaps a bit tougher than you'll expect due to moss/moisture, but the crack is nice and clean. Wish this was 50 ft longer. Aug 25, 2018
Is this route typically done as a layback? Or can you finger/toe-jam it straight up? Nov 12, 2018