Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Oz

Commander Salamander Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commander Salamander Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dorothy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Emerald City T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Monkey, The S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lollipop Gang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man Behind the Curtain, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Munchkin T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oil Can T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oz Boulder V1 5
Oz Chimney V0 4
Oz Slab TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Slippers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scarecrow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tin Man T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Brick Road S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,058 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Dec 19, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is one of Cape Ann's best crack climbs! Start below the crack, it may look a bit moist, but it can be easily be gotten around without getting wet. Start out as if you were going to Ruby Slippers, but take the beautiful, obvious crack of Tin Man to the top.

Location

This is the obvious crack to the right of Ruby Slippers on the left face of Oz.

Protection

Gear and TR anchors.

Photos

chris21
  5.7
chris21  
  5.7
I placed a tricam in the horizontal (brown or red I don't remember) then a couple BD 0.75s and mabye a 0.5 in the crack. Jun 11, 2013
chris21
  5.7
chris21  
  5.7
The crack was a little wet and full of pine needles and cob webs when I did it. I actually brought a small stick up with me to clean webs out of the crack. If it were clean and/or longer, it would probably get another star. All of the other routes here were covered with moss. Jun 11, 2013