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Routes in Oz

Commander Salamander Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commander Salamander Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dorothy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Emerald City T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Monkey, The S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lollipop Gang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Man Behind the Curtain, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Munchkin T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oil Can T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oz Boulder V1 5
Oz Chimney V0 4
Oz Slab TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Slippers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scarecrow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tin Man T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Brick Road S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 369 total, 6/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on Nov 19, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great, hard, slab line.

Start on a thin flake system and follow the face up through thin edges and difficult smearing. The crux is approximately halfway up moving through bad hands and worse feet. The line seems to trend left slightly to a system of thin seams.

Someone has scrubbed the bottom a bit, but I recently cleaned this off and worked the lower section on top rope. It is hard but seems doable in the 5.11 and up range. The current condition of the rock does not help as the immediate surface is still a little friable and slippery after years under lichen. It could use some heavy rain, another cleaning, and some sustained climbing. It's a pretty cool line though and just needs a little love...if love is what you call it.

Location

This is the leftmost slab in the Oz area. It should be pretty obvious because the cleaned swab through the center. There is probably another line buried beneath moss to the left of this.

Given the amount of moss, this is a slab that clearly gets a lot water, so its condition will depend on its current level of use.

Protection

No pro and setting up a top rope requires long slings. There is a great spot for bolts at the top.

Photos

Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
I was looking at this the other day. Looks like a very nice sequence. Dec 22, 2012
jim.dangle  
 
Given the location, I'm almost positive someone has climbed this line before (probably barefoot, blind-folded, and eating a box of fried clams with one hand). However, given the quality of the surface of the rock, I doubt it's been climbed in a while. I was also surprised that a healthy chunk of the lower flake was loose and came off pretty easily while I was climbing it.

In any case, if you know anything about this climb (name?, grade?, first ascent?), let me know and I'll post it up. Other than that, I'll treat as open project and make no claims to it.

Great winter project. Get on it! If you climb it, let me know!

Jim
Nov 19, 2012