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Condor Condiment
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 19
votes
Routes in Condor Crags
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Condor Condiment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Condor Crag Regular Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Condor Crag South - Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Condorks S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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St. Valentine's Day Massacre S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 565 ft (171 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 36.48589, -121.19804 |
| FA: | Jack Holmgren, Bob Walton, Keith Vandevere, 12/1989 |
| Page Views: | 5,186 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | rhyang on Oct 30, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
Pitch 1 (165', 5.8) - follow a line of nine bolts to a 2-bolt belay just below a small roof.
Pitch 2 (100', 5.8) - traverse left past a bolt and then head up through an area with holes suitable for cams and tricams, and finally trend left with some thrilling exposure and three more bolts. 2-bolt belay.
Pitch 3 (100', 5.7 or 5.10a) - head up past a bolt and some more holes. You eventually want to gain a ridge. The guidebook said going more to the left is 5.7R, while heading straight up past a bolt is 5.10a. I did the "5.10a" way and didn't think it was that hard, YMMV. Once on the ridge, clip another bolt, then belay at a one-bolt anchor, supplemented with gear.
Pitch 4 (200' to the summit, fourth class) - traverse right, then atop ridge past a couple more bolts. We downclimbed a bit, then up a gully. Two bolt belay with rap rings.
The route ends on the north summit of Condor Crag.
Location
Approach:
From the East Side:
Hike north from the junction of the High Peaks trail and the Juniper Canyon trail about 0.4 miles (there is an outhouse at this junction, which is about 2 miles and 1200' elevation gain from the Bear Gulch parking lot). The trail will dip down, and then climb back up steeply, up some steps cut into the rock and a railing. Pass Long's Folly on the left.
The next major formation on the left will be Condor Crag, which has a north and south summit. Observe the gap between them near a large gray/digger pine, then take the handrail and steps down.
From the West Side:
Hike up Juniper Canyon trail to the Tunnel trail. Take the Tunnel Trail to the ridge, then turn south (right) at the junction.
The route is on the north side of Condor Crag. Perhaps 100' north of Condor Crag is an obvious 8' tall shark fin on the edge of the trail. The climber's "trail" begins next to this. Bushwhacking and some third class scrambling required.
Descent:
Rappel from the summit to the first intermediate rap station near a tree -- do not go all the way down to the big alcove with the chockstone : otherwise the rope is likely to get stuck going over the sharp edge. Rappel a third time to the High Peaks trail.
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