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Routes in High Peaks

Abuela Cochinita S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Andy's Sunset Punctuation Pinnacle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Anvil, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Babies On the Ceiling S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Burgundy Dome S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burtons Below S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Sweep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Condor Condiment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Condor Crag South - Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cone Regular Route, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Egg Shell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erectile Dysfunction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feather Canyon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Freedom Dome, Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
H&L Dome - Regular Route S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hand Me Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Little Javelina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long's Folly: Regular Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Fortune S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lump, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operation Pinnacles Freedom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Photographer's Delight S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Piglet Pinnacle Southeast Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scandal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuff Dome Regular Route T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmentionable, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What I've Been Missing Out On T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
sponge left side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
swept away S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 565 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jack Holmgren, Bob Walton, Keith Vandevere, 12/1989
Page Views: 1,947 total, 26/month
Shared By: rhyang on Oct 30, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Raptor Closures! Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pitch 1 (165', 5.8) - follow a line of nine bolts to a 2-bolt belay just below a small roof.

Pitch 2 (100', 5.8) - traverse left past a bolt and then head up through an area with holes suitable for cams and tricams, and finally trend left with some thrilling exposure and three more bolts. 2-bolt belay.

Pitch 3 (100', 5.7 or 5.10a) - head up past a bolt and some more holes. You eventually want to gain a ridge. The guidebook said going more to the left is 5.7R, while heading straight up past a bolt is 5.10a. I did the "5.10a" way and didn't think it was that hard, YMMV. Once on the ridge, clip another bolt, then belay at a one-bolt anchor, supplemented with gear.

Pitch 4 (200' to the summit, fourth class) - traverse right, then atop ridge past a couple more bolts. We downclimbed a bit, then up a gully. Two bolt belay with rap rings.

The route ends on the north summit of Condor Crag.

Location

Approach: hike north from the junction of the High Peaks trail and the Juniper Canyon trail about 0.4 miles (there is an outhouse at this junction, which is about 2 miles and 1200' elevation gain from the Bear Gulch parking lot). The trail will dip down, and then climb back up steeply, up some steps cut into the rock and a railing. Pass Long's Folly on the left.

The next major formation on the left will be Condor Crag, which has a north and south summit. Observe the gap between them near a large gray/digger pine, then take the handrail and steps down.

The route is on the north side of Condor Crag. Continue on the trail until it is possible to descend along the north face, perhaps 100'. Bushwhacking and some third class scrambling required.

Descent: Rappel from the summit to the first intermediate rap station near a tree -- do not go all the way down to the big alcove with the chockstone : otherwise the rope is likely to get stuck going over the sharp edge. Rappel a second time to the High Peaks trail.

Protection

Cams from 0.6" to 4" (can probably leave out the #3 though), tricams, quickdraws, some longer slings, maybe a small selection of nuts. 60m rope.
Clay McKell
San Luis Obispo, CA
  5.8 R
Clay McKell   San Luis Obispo, CA
  5.8 R
Can confirm that all the lead and anchor bolts are either Star Dryvin or rusted beyond recognition. SMC hangers throughout.

Pitch 2 recommendation: double-length sling on that #4 placement because the bolts are on the opposite side of the gully. Don't get suckered into climbing towards the alcove: the route heads up left to anchors with quite a bit of exposure.

Descent recommendation: It feels silly, but 3 raps might be required. Rapping from the summit to the chains above the Holly bush allowed us to pull the rope just fine (we threaded the quicklinks rather than the end chain link because the end chain link looked small). We then rapped to the ground, but our rope got stuck behind the chockstone. Had to re-lead and rap from the chains behind the chockstone. Maybe we were unlucky, but it would have been faster to do three 50-foot rappels than what we did. Jun 13, 2017
a rack of singles will suffice (maybe double up on C4 0.75 and 0.5). You won't need BD C4 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, and 3.

great route but really needs more bolts... not only is it disturbingly runout in many parts but a lot of the gear placements are so suspect they're really more psychological pro than anything else...

also needs new bolts; almost all are Star Dryvins >_>

highly recommend extending the descent rappel by 5-10 feet or so with webbing or something. We ignored the above advice and did a 60m rap and were unable to pull the ropes. We then reascended the ropes, extended it by a few feet, descended to the intermediate rap station, and *still* couldn't pull the ropes. May 29, 2017
Steve J.
Seward, AK
Steve J.   Seward, AK
Had a tough time finding the start to this. Once you're off of the main trail and have picked your way down along the north face, look for the improbable bushwack which leads into a hallway like section along the base of the cliff. Definitely less traveled than many of the popular spots in Pinnacles. Mar 13, 2017
steple
  5.8
steple  
  5.8
If you climbed this route on 9/28/14, I might have some pictures of you. Message me if you are interested. Sep 28, 2014