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Routes in 5. Main Face

Blue Angel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Franny's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intertwine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Karen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Outersite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Post Road (aka Black Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoky TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thin Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Helman, Paul Doyle, Jim Gustafson (1963)
Page Views: 3,139 total, 41/month
Shared By: Barrett Stetson on Aug 14, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Start underneath the far right side of the chockstone (see Post Road), and climb up into a small, left-facing corner. After you pass a small bulge to the right, begin traversing (if you traverse higher at the large horizontal it will be slightly harder, doable, but if short may be doing blind cam placements). Continue to traverse and move up until underneath another left-facing corner (this felt like the crux to me). Climb up this left-facing corner to the large ledge, and then finish up somewhat easier climbing on the face to the right.

Protection

It took a few nuts low before the traverse, then finger/hand-sized cams for the rest (there is one old nasty pin at the top left-facing corner that can be clipped, but I backed it up after). It protects pretty well.

Photos

JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
Blowup (5.9) makes for a nice, though seldom done, 2nd mini-pitch. It may or may not have a small thorn bush growing right beneath the roof. Follow easy ramp to an obvious roof with a heel hook and toe jam.... Dirty but fun and way better than the easy corner that makes the top portion of Post Road. Aug 13, 2014
javd von dauber
East Brookfield MA
 
javd von dauber   East Brookfield MA
 
I traversed to the right higher as meantioned in the description. It was slightly harder as far as hand holds go but not significantly. It makes a nice alternative. Jul 31, 2014
losbill
  5.7+
losbill  
  5.7+
Franny's Folly Direct (5.10a/b) is a fun and challenging variation to Franny's Folly. Head up to the broad white streak under an overhang directly below Franny's Folly finishing left-facing corner. The line is clearly evident from Barrett's excellent route photo.

Surmount the overhang and finish straight up through LF corner. I have always top roped it. Might be a dicey lead although there is a horizontal above the overhang that is reachable from below that would take a good, medium-sized cam. Nov 24, 2013
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
One of my favorite face climbs at Crow... good for the grade with nice movement on good holds the whole way! Jan 3, 2012