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Routes in 5. Main Face

Blue Angel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Franny's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intertwine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Karen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Outersite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Post Road (aka Black Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoky TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thin Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 55 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,093 total, 21/month
Shared By: Pal Pocsi on Nov 17, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch of this route follows a thin crack up the arete on the east face of the buttress. It briefly joins The Chimney at the big, right-facing flake near the top of its first pitch. The moves are fun and the protection is good. An anchor can be set up near the start of the easy ramp.

According to the Boston Rocks guidebook, the second pitch is supposed to go "up and right on a steep wall." The topo sketch they have is not much more detailed, and so to the best of my knowledge, I believe the route is supposed to finish somewhat to the left of the smaller overhang under the pine tree at the top. I didn't find protection on this part of the face and tried going up slightly to the right where the options for gear seemed better. I think that might actually be another route though (Blue Angel, a 5.8) and the protection wasn't that great either. I backed off and finished the second pitch of The Chimney instead. If anyone has more definitive information on this route, please message me and I'll update this description. Alternatively, I hope to get back on this and give it another shot.

I gave this route a PG-13 rating but only for the second pitch. Because I had so much trouble finding the route, it may actually be better or possibly worse. I don't know.

Location

This is on the right hand side of The Buttress, just before reaching the Main Face. The Blue Route is just to the right of this crack and The Chimney is to the left.

Protection

Standard trad gear rack but it's helpful having some larger cams (up to a #3 BD Camalot) for setting up the anchor at the top of first pitch. I also recommend some tricams for the second pitch (I used a pink and black).

Photos

JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
I have always finished via the Chimney. One of my favorite easy routes in MA. Fun moves with great gear the whole way. The Nose makes a fun finish as well. Jul 24, 2015
I've also never done pitch two, despite several attempts. I always end up with no gear and no idea where the route ought to go. I'd love to see someone do it. That said, I enjoyed pitch 1 and finishing up via the chimney is fun. May 8, 2012
losbill
 
losbill  
 
Pal - your comments are on the mark. Twice I have gone up the line noted in your photo and backed off due to lack of gear. I have been a regular at Crow Hill for 8 years. Last year was the first time I have seen that pitch done. That leader was significantly runout at the top and indicated a fall would not have been good.

The line to the right I do believe is Blue Angel. I would rate it at 5.9. Gear is sparse and not straightforward but adequate for the experienced leader. It finishes on the right side of the overhang topped by the pine tree mentioned in your comments. Feb 13, 2011