Type: Trad, 55 ft (17 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,883 total · 22/month
Shared By: Pal Pocsi on Nov 17, 2009
Admins: Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M

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Description Suggest change

The first pitch of this route follows a thin crack up the arete on the east face of the buttress. It briefly joins The Chimney at the big, right-facing flake near the top of its first pitch. The moves are fun and the protection is good. An anchor can be set up near the start of the easy ramp.

According to the Boston Rocks guidebook, the second pitch is supposed to go "up and right on a steep wall." The topo sketch they have is not much more detailed, and so to the best of my knowledge, I believe the route is supposed to finish somewhat to the left of the smaller overhang under the pine tree at the top. I didn't find protection on this part of the face and tried going up slightly to the right where the options for gear seemed better. I think that might actually be another route though (Blue Angel, a 5.8) and the protection wasn't that great either. I backed off and finished the second pitch of The Chimney instead. If anyone has more definitive information on this route, please message me and I'll update this description. Alternatively, I hope to get back on this and give it another shot.

I gave this route a PG-13 rating but only for the second pitch. Because I had so much trouble finding the route, it may actually be better or possibly worse. I don't know.

Location Suggest change

This is on the right hand side of The Buttress, just before reaching the Main Face. The Blue Route is just to the right of this crack and The Chimney is to the left.

Protection Suggest change

Standard trad gear rack but it's helpful having some larger cams (up to a #3 BD Camalot) for setting up the anchor at the top of first pitch. I also recommend some tricams for the second pitch (I used a pink and black).