Avg: 2.2 from 18 votes
Routes in 5. Main Face
|Blue Angel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Blue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Franny's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Intertwine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Karen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Outersite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Post Road (aka Black Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Smoky TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Thin Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 55 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,093 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Pal Pocsi on Nov 17, 2009|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer|
DescriptionThe first pitch of this route follows a thin crack up the arete on the east face of the buttress. It briefly joins The Chimney at the big, right-facing flake near the top of its first pitch. The moves are fun and the protection is good. An anchor can be set up near the start of the easy ramp.
According to the Boston Rocks guidebook, the second pitch is supposed to go "up and right on a steep wall." The topo sketch they have is not much more detailed, and so to the best of my knowledge, I believe the route is supposed to finish somewhat to the left of the smaller overhang under the pine tree at the top. I didn't find protection on this part of the face and tried going up slightly to the right where the options for gear seemed better. I think that might actually be another route though (Blue Angel, a 5.8) and the protection wasn't that great either. I backed off and finished the second pitch of The Chimney instead. If anyone has more definitive information on this route, please message me and I'll update this description. Alternatively, I hope to get back on this and give it another shot.
I gave this route a PG-13 rating but only for the second pitch. Because I had so much trouble finding the route, it may actually be better or possibly worse. I don't know.