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Routes in 5. Main Face

Blue Angel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Franny's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intertwine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Karen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Outersite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Post Road (aka Black Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoky TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thin Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Post, et al.,1952
Page Views: 1,961 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jason Stone on Nov 15, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Look for a large chockstone/roof to the right of Intertwine. Climb the open book below the chockstone/roof. The vertical crack leading to the roof looks like an ideal place for a cam, but it's not. The crack will eat your cam and or it will be a pain to remove. At the stance beneath the roof, place a #3 Camalot in the horizontal crack and a #1 Camalot in the right hand portion of the same crack. When you begin to climb into the offwith, there will be a nice hold for your left hand above your head. Use this hold to get yourself in a nice position to begin lay backing the crux. Continue lay backing until you can get yourself in the offwith.

You can either top out to the right or rappel from the chained anchor used on Intertwine.

Note: When climbing through the crux, make sure you keep the rope between your legs in the event you fall.

Location

This is located to the right of Intertwine on the main face.

Protection

1 set of stoppers
1 #1 Camalot
1 #3 Camalot
2 quickdraws
3 2 foot slings.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7
According to Sam Streibert's 1975 guide, the FA for this route was by John Post and others in 1952. It was well-traveled by the Lowell Tech Outing club during the late 1960s, when we called it the "Black Route" (see the comment under Green Route). Oct 28, 2014
This is a great climb. I was pleasantly surprised.

A good lead for the 5.7 leader. Give a a try - it's well-protected and super fun. Lots of holds/feet, but it's a little intimidating and tricky.

Well-rated at 5.7. Aug 18, 2014
javd von dauber
East Brookfield MA
 
javd von dauber   East Brookfield MA
 
Fun lead that protects well. Pulling over the roof is the crux.... Just comit and go. Jul 31, 2014