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Routes in Main Area

Bewitched (direct) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Coe-Priestly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragons Spine , The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excalibur S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gingerbread Shortcut , The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lava Tube S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runaway Weasel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Salathe Highway, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
open project S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FA 7/30/11 by C.E., needs a FFA
Page Views: 114 total, 1/month
Shared By: another Chad on Jul 31, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Just thought others might want want to take on this interesting line. I can't work on it any more. This is a mostly unprepped project on the far left side of the Coethedral formation. It looks like Lake Tahoe's Candyland in some sections; smooth rock with grapefruit sized rocks jutting out. It has been cleaned a little but needs work. The yellow lichen present on this climb may produce asthma like symptoms in people who are generally not prone to asthma. Consider wearing a dust mask while cleaning.

If following the path shown in the picture, the grade will probably end up being between a 5.11b and 5.11d.

Location

To get to the anchor, bail from the middle of the second pitch of Bewitched. This will allow you to rappel onto the project's anchor. A safer option would be to climb with two ropes to the top of the second pitch of Bewitched and double-rope rappel (over 100') down to the project's anchor.

Protection

I installed a carabiner anchor on this climb. It will probably need between 8 to 10 lead bolts.

Photos

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