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Routes in Main Area

Better than Sex S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bewitched S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bewitched (direct) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Coe-Priestly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coeconut bridge S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dragons Spine, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gingerbread Shortcut, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gothic Rocks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gratitude S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grey Ghost S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lava Flow S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rad, Plaid, and Glad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Runaway Weasel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salathe Highway, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Trench Warfare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ujahn's Delight S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upskirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
open project S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 267 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pitch one 8/1/2009 - Bill Coe, Jeff Thomas and Ujahn Davisson. Pitch two 11/1/2009 - Bill Coe, Jeff Thomas.
Page Views: 57 total · 21/month
Shared By: Xander Culver on Jul 2, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This climb would be a three-star 5.9 if it were well cleaned. As of July 2018 the moves are very enjoyable, however, it feels like every hold is about to come out of the wall. This is likely because of the dirt and moss caking the surrounding rock, although the rock itself seems more brittle than elsewhere on the formation. I tried to clean off much of the dirt and moss when I rappelled. Likely this route needs regular traffic/cleaning as it is in the drainage of that part of the cliff. I would suggest belaying from one side or the other to avoid debris falling into your face.

P1 - 54 meters and 15 bolts to a shared anchor with Upskirt or 30 meters to first rap anchor.
P2 - 90 feet and 12 bolts to base of Salathe Highway.

Location

The gully between Lava Flow and Excalibur.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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