The Dragons Spine
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in Main Area
|Bewitched (direct) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Coe-Priestly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Dragons Spine , The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Excalibur S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Gingerbread Shortcut , The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Lava Tube S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Runaway Weasel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Salathe Highway, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|open project S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 350 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||P1 Bill Coe, Ujahn Davisson 8/15/2009 - P2 7/14/10 Solo, Bill Coe|
|Page Views:||1,373 total, 22/month|
|Shared By:||Billcoe on Sep 17, 2012|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionThe Dragons Spine goes for 2 pitches of unbelievably amazing and fun knob climbing.
P1) Follow the arete straight up near or on the spine. Wander back and forth passing the intermediate rap anchor (added later and shared with Gothic) on the left at the half way point. Follow the best knobs to a belay 56 meters up located @ 90 feet under and slightly to the right of the top of the pinnacle which ends at the 2 stainless Fixe Sport anchors on a tiny stance. P2, step up and right just enough so you don't land on your belayer and follow the 15 bolts up and tending slightly left past the sub pinnacles to the top of the main Dragons Spine Pinnacle.
From the pinnacle you should be able to rappel 3 different directions/routes to avoid any traffic with just your single 60m rope. No need to trail a 2nd line. The 3 rap versions are:
1st) Rap the route off the slings/ SS rings wrapped around the top of the pinnacle. You might bring a 18' piece of 1" tubular webbing or chunk of rope up to add to the exiting cluster to stay safe in case the existing webbing/rope up there has aged. All the other raps on this formation are stainless Fixe sport or chain anchors. Not this one. Try not to break the rock feature that makes it look like Dragons Teeth.
2nd) OR, if you don't have a spare piece of webbing or rope and the rap looks iffy for you: simply grab the slings and just step around left to the other side where the Grey Ghost Stainless Fixe Sport anchors are located on the North side.
3rd) Thread the rap rings and drop in towards the East to the Gratitude anchors in the gully behind the pinnacle.
LocationCenter of the wall. See overview photo. Route is listed in Tim Olsens "Northwest Oregon Rock" guidebook.
ProtectionBolts...lots and lots of bolts. Doing the route as it should be climbed, that is as doing the first pitch as a full 56 meters and not chickening out and heading to the rap anchors half way up so as to make it 3 pitches will require 24 draws and/or full length over the shoulder slings.
If you don't have 24 draws/runners, just step over at the half way point rap anchors and break it up into 2 pitches so that your buddy can drag your draws up to you. No one will be critical:-)