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Bewitched (direct) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Coe-Priestly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dragons Spine, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gingerbread Shortcut, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lava Flow S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Runaway Weasel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salathe Highway, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Trench Warfare S PG13
open project S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Ben Priestly, Bill Coe, Ujahn Davisson 10/10/2009
Page Views: 236 total · 3/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Jan 15, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Originally done as 2 pitches of boted, strenuous and interesting 5.10+ R climbing on the laft side of the formation. Some loose rock in the middle of P1 mars this otherwise sweet route. Better if broken into 3 pitches by belaying off the first rap point @26 meters up although can and originally was done in 2 pitches. Start 40 feet uphill from the reading room cave where a singe anchor bolt is located to keep you from rolling down the hill. Consider belaying from the overhang down the hill to avoid loose rockfall untill the route has seen some ascents and is cleaned off a bit.

The first pitch starts at the eye-level belay bolt and trends up and right for 26 meters to the optional belay. or continue to the second anchor. The second pitch eases to 5.9 or 5.10 and has 5 star climbing with solid, amazing and interesting rock, good protection, and an awesome view. If these first 2 pitches are run together the bolt total is 15 for both so feel free to add some as it needs more (according to the FA team). The last pitch is half a rope length.


Rap the route with 60M rope




Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a PG13
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a PG13
Friends and I pulled off a bunch of looseness from the first pitch and cleaned the rightward traverse to the first anchor. It will need more again next year, but for now it's a good climb. I led it onsight and thought it a slightly spicy 5.10a. We didn't really know what we were doing, plus it was coming into the scorching sun, so will have to come back for the second pitch... Jun 25, 2017

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