Type: Sport, 175 ft
FA: 8/1/09 by Adam Winslow & Bill Coe
Page Views: 1,993 total · 22/month
Shared By: another Chad on Jul 31, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This is a fantastic route that ascends a rock spine for what seems like forever. Solid and clean, this is the route to do if you are able to climb the grade. The leader can bail right to the Trench Warfare rap anchor at 90' to break up Excalibur into two pitches. This is not recommended though because 1) it's more fun to just keep going & going and 2) the belayer is going to get bombed with anything coming down while belaying at the Trench Warfare rap anchor.

Location

Left side of the Coethedral formation. At the time of this writing, a wood sign at the base of Excalibur identifies it.

Getting down from the top of Excalibur is obvious and easy. Rappel with a 60m rope to the Trench Warfare rap anchor (climber's right). One more rappel gets you to the ground.

Protection

28 lead bolts and a Fixe carabiner sport anchor.

Photos

Billcoe
 
Billcoe  
 
Good stuff Chad! Just want to add that it's easy to step over the top of the pinnacle that is the Excalibur top and continue on the next 2 short pitches to the Old Witch topout. As far as that goes, if someone were to add a bolt or 2 on the face to the left you could continue up the Bewitched route to the top as well. Jan 19, 2015
das1405
Portland
das1405   Portland
the wooden signs at base of route are basically just blank pieces of wood at this point. Someone has etched excalibur into the wood but its not going to last much longer. I will bring some paint markers out next time to redo signs if no one beats me to it.

I thought it was a really cool feature though and wish more crags did this Sep 26, 2016
Isaac
Portland
  5.9
Isaac   Portland
  5.9
As with other routes at this crag, the grading is soft. If you're comfortable on actual 5.10's, there's no need to carry 28 draws. I found myself clipping every 2nd or even 3rd after about halfway up the route. However, holds will break (regardless of how careful you are) and the rock is sharp. If you're going to save weight on draws, I'd recommend long sleeves and pants. Jun 12, 2018