Candyland 

This is a memorable route, I remember knobs as big as fire hydrants. You can mantle up one and then sit on it! A wild one.

The wildest climb on the Middle Spire. Make sure you have 4 3-4 ft slings ready to tie off the bowling ball sized knobs. An unforgettable climb...

A #2 camalot could be placed after the 30ft 5.4 runout. The largest piece that you will place on the upper section is a green alien. The thin crack is the perfect size for a couple #3 ballnuts.

This route gave me that "Holy @#$%!" feeling I only get on truly great routes. Five stars!

classic! Big reaches between giant muffin-tops. Don't pay any attention to Supertopo gear beta. Bring a few finger and smaller-than-finger sized cams and SMALL nuts for the horizontal cracks above the knobs and for the vertical crack, also bring one #1 for the bigger crack at the top.

Crux is moving into the vertical crack at the top of the route. Don't be fooled by the crack though, the climbing is mostly face climbing with a small nut sized crack for pro.

Thanks for the pics. This is one of the most memorable routes you'll ever do. I often mention this route when using chicken heads for pro.
A route you'll never forget.

I kept waiting for that upper crux and never really found it. Having a few micro cams kept the pro pretty reasonable between the horizontal break and the finger crack up top. I thought the committing reach between two of the huge knobs down low was the crux.

This climb is unique to my experience, something I'd recommend for any climber in the 5.10 trad range.

I can't fathom how this route would receive anything less than the max # of stars. Absolute joy to lead. The combination of a wonderful setting, fun moves in a funky head space, wild protection on/in perfect stone and reasonable height make this a definitive classic in my mind. I couldn't wait to get on this and was so psyched to onsite it. Felt like I should be paying for this much fun.

4ft runners are ideal for slinging. those aren't really knobs or chicken heads... more like bowling balls. I'd only brought two 4 footers and ended up having to girth two 2-footers together on the upper bowling balls. Crack doesn't climb like one at all. Very sporty but there are tons of great places for rather small gear (BD 0.1 red cams and green nuts). I plugged in 3 pieces because whenever I looked up I got spooked by the appearance of that small crack and thinking it was going to be really cruxy, but it never really was. Rather odd to have to anchors so far left, but understand the desire to have a single set for both routes. The traverse out to them is chill and you at least get to finish on one hell of a jug.