All Locations > New York > Adirondacks > Indian Lake Region > Crane Mountain > Long Play Wall

Long Play

Name: Long Play
Rating: 3.7

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Long Play Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big Man's Bane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Bodhi Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Induhvidual T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Long Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Moe-hammed, Larry, & Curly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Muckraker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Willie's Danish Prince T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
GPS:	43.5378, -73.9677
FA:	June 20, 2010
Page Views:	1,873 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Jay Harrison on Jun 22, 2011
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The start is pumpy, and though gear is good, it is strenuous to place. Once on the ledge (possible to belay here), things settle down to elegant face climbing on fairy-tale knobs, with occasional 5.5 runouts between good horizontal cracks, leading to another crux just above a bulge about 3/4 up. The bolt here makes it a secure move, avoiding any bounces against those sharp-edged knobs below. Good horizontals continue the pro through steep face climbing on the remainder of the pitch.
I'm biased no doubt, but Long Play ranks with Black Arch Arête for quality.

Location

Begin on the left side of the base of the Long Play Wall, at a right-facing corner with several discontinuous vertical cracks leading up to a large ledge.
There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree at the top, a 70m rope is required.

Protection

A full rack of cams and tricams, with double .3 and .4, triples of .5 and .7 Camalots. There is one bolt on the route, and a fixed tree anchor at the top. This is a long pitch!