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Routes in Long Play Wall

Big Man's Bane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bodhi Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Induhvidual T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Long Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Moe-hammed, Larry, & Curly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Muckraker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Willie's Danish Prince T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: June 20, 2010
Page Views: 871 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 22, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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13 Opinions

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Description

The start is pumpy, and though gear is good, it is strenuous to place. Once on the ledge (possible to belay here), things settle down to elegant face climbing on fairy-tale knobs, with occasional 5.5 runouts between good horizontal cracks, leading to another crux just above a bulge about 3/4 up. The bolt here makes it a secure move, avoiding any bounces against those sharp-edged knobs below. Good horizontals continue the pro through steep face climbing on the remainder of the pitch.
I'm biased no doubt, but Long Play ranks with Black Arch ArĂȘte for quality.

Location

Begin on the left side of the base of the Long Play Wall, at a right-facing corner with several discontinuous vertical cracks leading up to a large ledge.
There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree at the top, a 70m rope is required.

Protection

A full rack of cams and tricams, with double .3 and .4, triples of .5 and .7 Camalots. There is one bolt on the route, and a fixed tree anchor at the top. This is a long pitch!
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
high crux is easier if ur tall with gogo gadget arms. botttom is pumpy, especially on lead. this climb is spectacular. Aug 23, 2012
Will Roth
Saranac Lake, NY
Will Roth   Saranac Lake, NY
The start is the crux but you can get gear and have a spotter right there so it is not really that bad. The first run out to the bolt you can sling a flake (double length runner needed) and then it is well protected from there to the top. If Black Arches Arete is PG13 than this climb should be G! May 17, 2012
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
The start was definitely the psychological crux for me, with tricky placements and risk of a near ground fall, or at least an unpleasant swing. Definitely engaging at the start. The rest the the climb is very pleasant, and would be classic if a bit cleaner, I think. High crux is well protected. Runouts are on easy climbing. Nov 11, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.10a
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.10a
Fantastic climb with varied moves and moderate face in-between. Needs a little more cleaning but can definitely be led safely in its current condition. Watch for the 5.5 runout! Aug 28, 2011
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
  5.9+ PG13
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
  5.9+ PG13
hey jay i wanna add this one to the list of routes we're gonna do in a day, i wanna get the lead on this one! Aug 6, 2011