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Routes in Long Play Wall

Big Man's Bane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bodhi Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Induhvidual T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Long Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Moe-hammed, Larry, & Curly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Muckraker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Willie's Danish Prince T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: October 2010
Page Views: 589 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 16, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Originally ending on the ledge 35' up, this route has been extended to reach the Long Play Wall's upper ledge. Another 60' pitch has been added above this as well, but it is harder (5.9+) and very committing (somewhat R-rated for gear).
A burly start, reachy moves, and a final jam crack make this a variety-packed climb despite its short stature.
The first pitch ends on a small ledge beneath the taller stretch of the LPW. In early December 2010, the route was extended to the upper ledge of the LPW.
Climb the corner to a stance. Make a difficult reach up and left to a left-facing flake. Climb it to its end, and follow the crack from there to the ledge (there is an anchor here). Continue up the corner/crack system right of the tree. Where the crack peters out, reach right to another crack and follow it to a slanting, left-facing corner with several ledge steps (V1). Climb a crack left of tilted blocks, past a wedged boulder, to the Long Play ledge, a total of 95' from the bottom.
V1 Hail Mary 5.8 130'(total): Belay at the top of the stepped ledges, below the tilted blocks. Climb left along a narrow shelf running left and along the bottom of an overhang, around the overhang's low point, then climb up on face holds to a horizontal crack rising left. The climb up to the crack is just right of Long Play. Follow the crack all the way left to the rounded arĂȘte where Induhvidual comes out onto the face, then climb up to the top.

Location

Right of the center of the LPW, at a small, left-facing ramp/corner, which is often wet. Suck it up and go anyway. It's worth it.
Descent: Single rappel w/60m rope from cold-shuts (SS, 2012) at the top of the route.

Protection

Standard Modern Rack. Tricams helpful.
Oak trees provide belay and rappel points.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8+
A sleeper climb to the right of Long Play. Three distinct sections that can be linked for a single pitch. This has every style of climbing imaginable. Cleaned up a bit more this will easily be one of the better 5.8s in the southern adks.

It's sustained 5.7/5.8, but nothing harder than 5.8 Because of it being sustained and a couple gear placements with uncomfortable stances I'd agree with the initial 5.8+ given. Definitely G.

Single 60m reaches the ground from anchors. If you're using a 70m you can walk climber's left to top of Long Play to setup a TR. Aug 28, 2011