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Long Play

5.10a PG13, Trad, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 18 votes
FA: June 20, 2010
New York > Adirondacks > Indian Lake Region > Crane Mountain > Long Play Wall

Description

The start is pumpy, and though gear is good, it is strenuous to place. Once on the ledge (possible to belay here), things settle down to elegant face climbing on fairy-tale knobs, with occasional 5.5 runouts between good horizontal cracks, leading to another crux just above a bulge about 3/4 up. The bolt here makes it a secure move, avoiding any bounces against those sharp-edged knobs below. Good horizontals continue the pro through steep face climbing on the remainder of the pitch.
I'm biased no doubt, but Long Play ranks with Black Arch Arête for quality.

Location

Begin on the left side of the base of the Long Play Wall, at a right-facing corner with several discontinuous vertical cracks leading up to a large ledge.
There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree at the top, a 70m rope is required.

Protection

A full rack of cams and tricams, with double .3 and .4, triples of .5 and .7 Camalots. There is one bolt on the route, and a fixed tree anchor at the top. This is a long pitch!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling the crux of Long Play.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the crux of Long Play.
Eyeing the upper crux move before taking a stab. Photo by Mike Prince.
[Hide Photo] Eyeing the upper crux move before taking a stab. Photo by Mike Prince.
Jamie McNeill in the easy, runout section.
[Hide Photo] Jamie McNeill in the easy, runout section.
Tom Rosecrans makes the delicate step right at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Tom Rosecrans makes the delicate step right at the crux.
Finishing the steep upper face of <em>Long Play</em>. Photo by Mike Prince.
[Hide Photo] Finishing the steep upper face of Long Play. Photo by Mike Prince.
Sussing the upper crux.
[Hide Photo] Sussing the upper crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] hey jay i wanna add this one to the list of routes we're gonna do in a day, i wanna get the lead on this one! Aug 6, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb with varied moves and moderate face in-between. Needs a little more cleaning but can definitely be led safely in its current condition. Watch for the 5.5 runout! Aug 28, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] The start was definitely the psychological crux for me, with tricky placements and risk of a near ground fall, or at least an unpleasant swing. Definitely engaging at the start. The rest the the climb is very pleasant, and would be classic if a bit cleaner, I think. High crux is well protected. Runouts are on easy climbing. Nov 11, 2011
Will Roth
Saranac Lake, NY
[Hide Comment] The start is the crux but you can get gear and have a spotter right there so it is not really that bad. The first run out to the bolt you can sling a flake (double length runner needed) and then it is well protected from there to the top. If Black Arches Arete is PG13 than this climb should be G! May 17, 2012
Benjamin Brooke
San Pedro, CA
 
[Hide Comment] high crux is easier if ur tall with gogo gadget arms. botttom is pumpy, especially on lead. this climb is spectacular. Aug 23, 2012
Ross Manny
Saranac Lake, NY
 
[Hide Comment] This rig is in dire need of a top down cleaning. It was honestly pretty scary in its current state... The comments lead me to believe that it has always been a little dirty, but it has only had 4 MP recorded ascents in the last 5 years, and it shows. If you intend on doing it bring a wire brush and be prepared for an experience. Aug 22, 2022