Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, Grade II|
|FA:||Michael Gray, Keith Meister, Ben Brooke 08/25/12|
|Page Views:||934 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Michael John Gray on Apr 18, 2012|
Start: This route is located approximately 60' left and uphill of Willies Danish Prince at the Long Play Wall up a steep chimney-like gulley to where a teetering rock balances against the face at an obvious left facing corner.
Route: Stunning is the best way to describe this climb. The exposure the varied climbing and the spectacular views blow you away. Teeter across the balanced rock bridge to the left facing corner and climb it through splitter hands to its end to a low angled slab. At the low angled slab there is an optional belay at a fixed anchor up and left. Otherwise aim up and slightly right for an obvious bulging stellar looking left arching finger flake to thin hands crack. Climb the crack to its end then trend right and up on plated face with horizontals then up and back left to a Pin Oak tree and anchor. 140'
Descent: A 70m will get you down in one rappel. With a 60m rope rap the Pin Oak anchor down and slightly left to a fixed anchor. Rap once more to the ground from the fixed anchor.
FA: Michael Gray, Keith Meister, Ben Brooke 08/25/12
Note: The route is conducive to developing rope drag on the upper face if you do not take appropriate care.