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Willie's Danish Prince
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 8
votes
Routes in Long Play Wall
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Big Man's Bane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bodhi Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Induhvidual T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Long Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Moe-hammed, Larry, & Curly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Muckraker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Willie's Danish Prince T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 43.5378, -73.9677 |
| FA: | 2011 |
| Page Views: | 816 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Nov 30, 2011 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
The hardest moves are near the lower bolts, however, the upper face is almost equally challenging.
You do not have to touch the loose block at the start - and probably shouldn't.
Climb up onto the top of the flake, move up (bolt)and right below a bulge, passing the bulge to the right (bolt) to gain a ledge. Traverse right to a vertical crack and follow it to an overhang. Climb through the overhang at a thin seam, trend up and left (two bolts), reaching the right end of a small ledge below a final 15' slab. Climb directly up the slab to the belay ledge.
While not as thrilling as Long Play, this route provides an enjoyable alternative/additional line up the wall.
Location
On the left side of the main face, 12' left of a wide, open book/corner, at a right-facing flake below and left of a large, loose block pasted to the wall.
Unlike Induhvidual, one does not clamber up the gully to get to this route.
Descent: Rappel via 70m rope or two rappels, using fixed anchors to either side of the Long Play Wall.
3 Comments