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Routes in Long Play Wall

Big Man's Bane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bodhi Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Induhvidual T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Long Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Moe-hammed, Larry, & Curly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Muckraker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Willie's Danish Prince T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: 2011
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 30, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

The hardest moves are near the lower bolts, however, the upper face is almost equally challenging.
You do not have to touch the loose block at the start - and probably shouldn't.
Climb up onto the top of the flake, move up (bolt)and right below a bulge, passing the bulge to the right (bolt) to gain a ledge. Traverse right to a vertical crack and follow it to an overhang. Climb through the overhang at a thin seam, trend up and left (two bolts), reaching the right end of a small ledge below a final 15' slab. Climb directly up the slab to the belay ledge.
While not as thrilling as Long Play, this route provides an enjoyable alternative/additional line up the wall.

Location

Start: On the left side of the main face, 12' left of a wide, open book/corner, at a right-facing flake below and left of a large, loose block pasted to the wall.
Unlike Induhvidual, one does not clamber up the gully to get to this route.
Descent: Rappel via 70m rope or two rappels, using fixed anchors to either side of the Long Play Wall.

Protection

Full standard rack, including C3s or similar.
There are 4 bolts en route, two in the first 30' and two along the face climbing above the overhang.
Tree anchors are at the top.

Photos

Jay Harrison  
 
Since getting more cleaning, this route has improved markedly.
While there are a plethora of hollow flakes along the upper reaches of this route, the original ascent avoided them. I've considered prying the worst offenders off, but at the moment they all seem solid enough. These tend to be right after good bolt placements, so an incautious leader shouldn't come to harm because of them - though the belayer might! Sep 13, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.10-
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.10-
I also think this has one, maybe two 10 moves on it. Sections of quality climbing rival Long Play for 'best' on this wall. Sep 3, 2012
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.10a
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.10a
Not talked about much but it should be. Very good climb and very challenging. Harder than its neighbor to the right in my opinion. Aug 23, 2012