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Routes in Long Play Wall

Big Man's Bane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bodhi Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Induhvidual T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Long Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Moe-hammed, Larry, & Curly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Muckraker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Willie's Danish Prince T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: April 2nd, 2012 Jay Harrison & Tom Lane
Page Views: 213 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Apr 4, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The initial 15' is unprotected 5.8, and long falls are possible in a couple spots farther up, so it isn't for leaders breaking into the grade.
Climb up to a tenuous stance above the slanting crack and make a balancy reach to a good sidepull. Reach up to place the 1st pro in a right-rising crack, then climb that crack a few feet until a tricky move left gets you to a right-facing corner. Up this, to a ledge (V1). From this, climb up over a triangular chockstone boulder onto another good ledge. Climb the obvious vertical crack (using very unobvious technique) to a sloping ledge finish.
V1 5.10a TR: Climb the narrow seam/tips crack to its end, bump for a good hold, then rejoin the route at the hand crack. For lead attempts, pro for this variation may be too far underfoot to avoid a ledge hit.

Location

40' right of Moehammed, Larry, & Curly, at the leftmost of 3 ground-level vertical cracks that end at a right-trending crack at head height.
Descend by rappelling from a tree.

Protection

Full set of C3s, C4s .3 to #2, and small to medium stoppers.

Photos

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