Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Kent McClanan and Mick Follari, 2009
Page Views: 733 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Apr 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start at a pillar with a nice hand crack above its left edge. Climb to the top of the pillar and engage the crack above. Easier climbing leads to a sloping ledge and a rotten overhang. Above the overhang is a great crack in a perfect open book. Getting over the overhang is the crux and while it is well-protected, there is a lot of loose crumbly rock to negotiate on the way. This might be a little scary for a leader at their limit. Above the overhang, climb the excellent crack to the ledge below the south face of the Potato Chip. You can also head left (recommended) to a tree with slings before the ledge.

Location

This is on the right side of the buttress located below and to the southwest of the Potato Chip. This is the first crack system right of Don't Peel. Rap from a tree at about 70' or head up to the ledge below the Potato Chip and go left to a big tree on the west edge of the ledge and rap 60' west to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
I believe this was done back in the mid-1980s. There evidence of an ascent way back then. Peace and fuk-nes, Steve S. Apr 28, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
Steve, I listed the FA info. listed in the Steve Levin guide. If you are the first ascencionist, or know who is, I will change the info. on this page. Apr 28, 2011
Steve, the evidence you mention is likely downhill near Hypothermia.
Also worth mentioning, this route continues to the summit of the Potato Chip. From the top of P1, climb up the slab to the base of the south face. P2 climbs the 5.8 finger crack just right of Mr. Potato Head. Ascend the crack, then the face above to the summit. For a more difficult option, climb the finger crack and then move left at the obvious, angling crack system. Follow this to the summit (5.10).

Descent: rap the south face from bolts. Although the climbing may not be 4 stars, the summit is. Oct 23, 2013