Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kent McClannan, Bruce Miller, 2009
Page Views: 465 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Apr 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The crux comes right away on this one. It's way harder than it looks. Those jugs you are going for don't actually exist. Maybe it is stiff for 5.8, but that's what the plus is for, right? You can get overhead gear for the start anyway (a nut or small cam, or both). Crank into the corner and continue cruising up great featured rock with OK gear. Make sure to place gear when you reach the rotten band under the roof. There is a good #3 or a hex on the lower right side of the band. Make exciting 5.6 moves up into and over the roof. There is not much gear here, but jugs appear. Angle over right to a tree with slings.

Location

This route is on the buttress below the Potato Chip. It starts at a right-facing corner with two thin cracks on the left wall and just downhill from a big tree near the rock.

Protection

SR, tree with slings. There is plenty of rope to lower off. There is good gear at the crux, but it is runout on easier terrain....

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