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Routes in West Ridge - part F - The Potato Chip

Chives T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Don't Peel T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Eye of the Potato T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
French Fry T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ground Control T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hypothermia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idaho Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mountain Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Potato Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Petite Giraffe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's Wendego T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Potato Chip Route (Regular Route) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sour Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treetop Flyer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kent McClannan, Bruce Miller, 2009
Page Views: 386 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Apr 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The crux comes right away on this one. It's way harder than it looks. Those jugs you are going for don't actually exist. Maybe it is stiff for 5.8, but that's what the plus is for, right? You can get overhead gear for the start anyway (a nut or small cam, or both). Crank into the corner and continue cruising up great featured rock with OK gear. Make sure to place gear when you reach the rotten band under the roof. There is a good #3 or a hex on the lower right side of the band. Make exciting 5.6 moves up into and over the roof. There is not much gear here, but jugs appear. Angle over right to a tree with slings.

Location

This route is on the buttress below the Potato Chip. It starts at a right-facing corner with two thin cracks on the left wall and just downhill from a big tree near the rock.

Protection

SR, tree with slings. There is plenty of rope to lower off. There is good gear at the crux, but it is runout on easier terrain....

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Small cams in the crack left of the corner over the roof are the most necessary pro. Stemming and palm-mantling get you up this climb, but it is awkward and pretty heads-up. May 28, 2011