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Routes in West Ridge - part F - The Potato Chip

Chives T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Don't Peel T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Eye of the Potato T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
French Fry T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ground Control T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hypothermia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idaho Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mountain Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Potato Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Petite Giraffe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's Wendego T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Potato Chip Route (Regular Route) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sour Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treetop Flyer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad
FA: M. Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 635 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Approach as for the Potato Chip. Once at the knifeblade SW edge of the Potato Chip, look ~ 60 feet left to an obvious right-facing crack system that curves upward and though a small dihedral before kicking back to a lower angle and running past a 2' tall tree and up a dirty crack. Climb up great rock through some really beautiful moves. I actually got 2 no-hands rests from knee locks in the acute overhanging dihedral. After about 50' of climbing the off-fingers crack passed an overhanging section and transitioned to a low-angle, and somewhat loose/dirty system that keeps this climb from being 2**. Too bad.

This pitch protects as weel as you could ask for. Go do it when you are up there.

To descend, walk north past 2 false summit blocks (1 visible, then 1 hidden block). From the third black, cut back hard left (S/SW) to a pine tree and walk/scramble down the ridge to the trail near the base again. This takes ~ 2 minutes.

Protection

One full set of cams, from .5" to 3" Lowe Tricams and stoppers are also useful, but not needed.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
The first half of this route is pretty fun, but the upper half is not so great. May 9, 2011