Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Ridge - part F - The Potato Chip

Chives T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Don't Peel T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Eye of the Potato T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
French Fry T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ground Control T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hypothermia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idaho Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mountain Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Potato Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Petite Giraffe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's Wendego T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Potato Chip Route (Regular Route) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sour Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treetop Flyer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Tim Beaman, Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare, 1975
Page Views: 661 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on May 9, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

I really liked this route. It is steep and strenuous with really good moves and good gear. Some of the rock is suspect and certainly dirty. I had three stars worth of fun, but I'm afraid this one may be destined to obscurity. The hike is long, and the climb is short. The first 15 feet have some loose stuff, but you can avoid it. The crux starts at a little overhang where you can reach up and place bomber nuts in the finger crack above. As you undercling the hollow and fractured flake, keep in mind this whole section might fall off with you on it. Perfect finger locks lead to a wide section. Follow the crack right. A #5 is nice to have here, but you'd be fine with a #4, or you might live with just a #3. When the crack jogs back left there is a giant block that may fall out and kill your belayer, just YARD on it since it's a good "jug". Head up and left (#0.75 or #1 Camalot). You might as well belay here @ a tree since it's really comfy, and you can watch the 2nd. There is a short second pitch (~20 feet) that could be linked with the first. A couple tricky moves but mostly perfect hand jams. At the top of this there is another tree. Rap from here or hike up around the Potato Chip and do that, too. (That way you can justify that #5 you have with you).

Location

Hypothermia is on the South East facing wall of the buttress below the Potato Chip. The easiest way to find it is to hike up the Redgarden wall trail. When you see the walk off, continue for a couple hundred feet along the base until you see the crack.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 (optional #5), Tree with slings to rap.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Nice, steep climbing on course, grippy rock with lots of jamming. If it had the exact same moves but the rock inspired more confidence, it would get more stars. As it stands, it's one of the better routes over on the 'Chip' area and should be reserved for people not pushing their limits. Desperation on this route would be bad- a cool head to evaluate every move and protection point is good. May 28, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
I thought this was a good route with fun moves, but I can't give it more than two stars due to the loose rock and steep, long approach. I would reccomend it though, if you are in the area. May 9, 2011