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Routes in West Ridge - part F - The Potato Chip

Chives T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Don't Peel T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Eye of the Potato T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
French Fry T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ground Control T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hypothermia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idaho Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mountain Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Potato Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Petite Giraffe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's Wendego T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Potato Chip Route (Regular Route) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sour Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treetop Flyer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad
FA: M. Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 430 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Follow the directions as for The Potato Chip route. About 80' uphill to the left of The Potato Chip itself, you can see a crack that ascends to an outward-overhanging wide section. Start from a little corner on the ground (right facing alcove for the belay). Climb the first 15' of rock to get situated below the bomb-bay offwidth. Place a piece of gear, then make surprisingly easy moves to layback and under and around the crack, moving out and left. A few small but solid incuts up and left on the arete complement the reasonably good foot holds, and make this section pretty comfortable without much gear nearby.

Use some heal-toe lock, knee bars, arm bars or chicken wings in the crack while you fiddle in a #4 Camalot. Move up past the short OW section (6' at most of real OW) and then climb up 60' more of various cracks overhead, at a moderate grade.

All in all, this route felt very easy for it's given 5.9 grade. We believe it to be 5.8, unless it is your first offwidth.

Descend by walking around left (NW) past a single [summit] block, then down and left to the pine tree and down the ridge as described for Sour Cream and Ruffles Have Ridges.

Protection

A standard Eldo rack + one #4 Camalot

A [single] #4.5 or #5 Camalot will help if you are at your limit or don't climb O.W. well, but the route is reasonably safe without any OW gear

Photos

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