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Routes in West Ridge - part F - The Potato Chip

Chives T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Don't Peel T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Eye of the Potato T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
French Fry T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ground Control T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hypothermia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idaho Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mountain Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Potato Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Petite Giraffe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's Wendego T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Potato Chip Route (Regular Route) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sour Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treetop Flyer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bruce Miller and Kent McClannan, 2009
Page Views: 307 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Apr 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Climb up jugs in the overhang and climb the concave face with a thin seam above. The crux is just above the overhang and is hard to protect. A #6 Camalot can be placed in a big pod just above the overhang and a ball nut will go in the seam about 6' higer. There is no other pro to protect the crux moves. Above, the climbing gets easier and a crack, slightly to the right, leads to the rap tree. This upper crack takes good gear.

Location

This is on the right side of the buttress located below and to the southwest of the Potato Chip. The climb is about 10' left of Mountain Jam.

Protection

SR with a #6 Camalot and Ballnuts.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
I didn't have any really wide gear as mentioned for the pod over the overhang. I was able to protect the crux pretty well though on a #4 BD stopper placed in a small opening of a small seam just left of the main crack just above the roof and it was VERY bomber when placed concave-side to the left, as it went back behind a lump and locked deeply into the crack. Placed facing the other way it was so-so at best. I played with this a few times before committing to it confidently. The crux moves to follow are thin and balance-oriented, and this may be your only pro.... May 28, 2011