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Routes in West Ridge - part F - The Potato Chip

Chives T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Don't Peel T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Eye of the Potato T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
French Fry T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ground Control T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hypothermia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idaho Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mountain Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Potato Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Petite Giraffe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's Wendego T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Potato Chip Route (Regular Route) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sour Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treetop Flyer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Horan and Adams
Page Views: 1,009 total, 5/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on May 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Killer position, awesome moves, but man what a pile! After I unweighted the first left foothold it crumbled, larger loose holds to the top...Which way is up? After the fourth bolt I was'nt sure where to go, so I went up. A bit hairy, but I did'nt have a sling to drape over this huge (loose) flake. Once on top...Where the *@&% is the anchor?? So I straddled the summit, lowered down my end to get two long tied runners and a big link to sling around the summit... Anyway, there is a defined crux getting to the third bolt. Basically, some good powerful moves with loose holds...Two stars I guess.

Protection

4 QD's and shoulder length sling

Photos

alan_doak  
 
It seemed really clean (and thin) when I was up there last weekend. Maybe Alex removed the last of the thin chips and flakes while he was up there. Great position leaves you wintering in the sun long after everything else is in the shade. The chains are easy to scramble to so we ended up toproping the route, but it looks like a blue or yellow TCU and sling would be useful past the 4th bolt. But, by that time the climbing eases up considerably.

Even though the route is so short, I would give it 3 stars. I'll [definitely] be back up there to get the redpoint. Nov 21, 2005